A Walk About With Larry

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Finally! Re-learning how to plan a “wandering” trip to Mexico!

Travel to Teothhuican
Teotihuican near Mexico City. Inspiration for "The Four Agreements" by Don Miguel Ruiz.

It’s been several years since I traveled to Mexico to wander!  In June, I found room still available in Oaxaca for Dia de Los Muertos.  It was a bit challenging receiving confirmation, lodging places still reeling from the effects of Covid!  

With a room confirmed, I launched into searching for flights!  Restrictive regulations in place during covid were gone or leaving.  Now, it remained for me to re-learn how to plan my own trip and make arrangements that were once second nature!  

For example, I didn’t book the proper type of flight.  I spent hours the past couple days trying to discover the proper way to correct the situation.  After about six phone calls, I talked with a very helpful man at Volaris who guided me in the right direction.  NOW, that part is complete!  YAY!

The process included conflicting information, changing totals on baggage I could take, wildly different answers and, with a lot of patience, things resolved.

First reminder to self:  It is TRAVEL.  Start practicing lots of patience right now!  

Second Wave!

  I’ve been to several of these places but only once.  The first time is overwhelming and it is impossible to see everything!  This time, I’ll explore a little bit deeper.  In preparation, I’ve been scouring the web for “off the beaten” path suggestions.  Those range from hacienda’s, hot springs, gardens, homes, neighborhoods, foods, festivals, and much more.  I’m particularly interested in exploring typical foods unique to local areas.  For example, Guanajuato was once a very wealthy and influential silver mining town.  Unique to Guanajuato are meals like enchiladas mineras, a meal wives prepared for their mining husbands.  I’m looking in each place I plan to visit for other similar local items.  And, I plan to eat tacos al pastor in EVERY place I visit.  The same food taste different everywhere and is one of my favorite!  Yum!

A word of caution!  The internet is full of a huge range of information and I’ve learned which to discount and what information feels right for me.  For example, I found a post on the ten best coffee shops in Oaxaca.  Interested, and being a barista who loves good coffee, I clicked the link to read more.  The post was from a digital nomad, made no mention about the quality of coffee in any of the shops but rated them based on the speed of their wifi connection!  Not even close to my interest! 

Ancient world and modern Ox and Bus
Transportation Options!
Benito Juarez Airport

Beginning and rhythm!

It takes a week or so to get into a travel rhythm!  I’m packing light, taking only essentials and yet, my pack is fairly full.  This time, I have to accommodate colder weather so more layers are involved!  The best flight both for cost and for it being direct is to Mexico City.  Here’s a little profile of what happens then!

The image above is of Benito Juarez Airport in Mexico City.  The first time I flew there, weather delays and near missed flights had me arriving exhausted.  I got disoriented and lost and found amazing maintenance staff who walked me outside where I could find a taxi!  

Since then, it’s become very familiar and surprisingly easy to get around.  There, I go through customs and immigration, visit an ATM to get some peso’s and then go up to the Telcel phone company store to get a sim card for my phone.  The staff there are excellent and always have gotten my phone set up correctly!  

Mexico City Metro overhead
Metro has a stop five minutes walk from the airport!

There is a bus station at the airport.  However, there is no bus direct to where I want to go.  So, I’ve booked a hotel near the Central Del Norte Bus station for travel the following morning.  Now, how to get to the hotel!?!?  

It will be rush hour on a Friday afternoon.  Traffic is slow and there are possible surcharges for delays.  They have Uber which is less than taxi’s but still slow.  And then there is the metro, a short walk from the Telcel office!

Opinions once again enter!  Some posts suggest NEVER taking the metro during rush hour.  Others list all the reasons it’s such a safe way to travel!  And the cost is less than one dollar US with a stop five minute walk from my hotel!  I found a metro map, located the line I will use and saw that it’s the second stop from the beginning of the route.  I’m assuming that means the cars won’t be crammed!  So, I’m planning to use that transportation to get me started.

The bus I am using the next morning it Primera Plus…first class comfy bus!  I re-learned how to purchase my ticket in advance!  It’s direct so five hours after we board, I’ll be in Guanajuato.  

The bus station is outside town.  Taxi’s are available.  However, right in front of the bus station is a local bus stop.  For a few pesos, they will stop near the mercado, underground in one of the tunnels, and let me off.  I walk up a flight of stairs and then a couple blocks to my hotel!

And that is when I’ll really feel like I’ve started my wandering journey!

Things that are different!

Go SLOW!  Slow down, breathe, put your phone away, smile and say hello to people.  Stop at the street food vendors and sample everything!  The pace of life is different.  Walking fast and harried sets you apart as a foreigner who is unable to connect with the local culture.  Find a plaza, get a cup of coffee or tea or Mexican hot chocolate.  Then, sit, savor, watch, observe, relax and enjoy!  This is part of life in other parts of the world.  Slow down, connect to yourself, breathe, relax, breathe some more.  

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It’s not unusual to see musicians playing along the street.  Every plaza gathers people, often families out to enjoy themselves.  What is unusual is seeing anyone on a phone!  Phones come out to take photo’s but then go away.  It’s an interesting cultural phenomenon that is also crucial to successful business:  people talk to each other here!!

More Magic!

Immersion!  When traveling, I love immersing myself into the local culture.  Local foods, local hangouts, walking around the markets, meeting people, sitting in the plaza relaxing and watching…those are my favorite things to do!

A friend asked me “what are you going to do”?  I’m not planning to “do” but to “be”!  In the US culture, it seems like human beings have turned into human “doings”.  I’m planning to sit, be still, listen, relax, let go, observe, grow and find little things to appreciate…every day!  

Somehow, things always flow for me when I travel.  I’ll be visiting places I’ve been only once but met people my first visit that will remember me, we’ll connect and laugh and then, I’ll meet new friends.  One hostal in Oaxaca wrote back when I inquired with them directly about availability’s :  “Of course we remember you!  It will be an honor to have you stay with us again!”

Connecting….that’s what I plan to do.  Two types of connecting are really important.  First, with people.  Second, with myself.  Quieting the mental chatter, being quiet inside, listening and flowing.  Perfect!

 

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Curandera healer, local village.
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Dia de Los Muertos in Oaxaca!  Eventually, I’ll be in Oaxaca once again for this celebration!  It’s an awesome celebration of life.  So much joy, celebration, music, food, flower arranging, sand painting, preparation by local communities and families…it’s amazing!  Some processions are only children!  Mostly, I simply enjoy being in the energy of celebration!  

Processions approach each other on the streets when their paths overlap.  Then, the music competition begins.  One group plays a loud spirited number only to be met by a similar musical piece by the other group, back and forth!  It’s not really a competition but a display of their musical abilities.  I get goose bumps just remembering what it is like at those moments.  The street is packed with both the procession and people like me watching from the sidewalks (which you can barely move through).  

Suddenly, processions separate, each progressing their own way, the music echoing behind them!  Lovely!

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Open heart and friendly!

Changing throughout the day, there are different locations for local foods, pan de muerto (bread of the dead), hot chocolate made traditionally, a craftsman making the Molinillo used to whip the chocolate (what the woman in the photo below is using), face painting, plaza music, more food, and rich enticing aromas everywhere…yes, I so enjoy this celebration!

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Seeing and Looking!

I remind myself to see and to stop looking!  Seeing is experiencing what is in front of my eyes right now!  Looking is glazing over as if I’ve already seen this before and there is nothing here for me.  Seeing is so much richer!

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Drink menu at one street food location. 

Travel day!

Soon, I’ll be leaving to travel roughly 1,500 miles by bus in Mexico.  Because of the popularity of Dia de Los Muertos, I am leaving with more lodging reservations than normal.  I’ve booked a room for my first night in Mexico City near the bus station.  The next morning, I’ll walk to the station, check my bag, settle into my seat and really feel like I’m beginning my journey!  

Two things are toward the top of my list this journey…aside from connecting with people and meeting some old friends.  One…I’ve done a bit of research to dig deeper in to local traditional foods.  I eat lighter, graze frequently, and generally walk four or five hours a day (or more).  Second, I want to learn a couple new things in terms of how to use my camera and get clearer photo’s.  I’ll do some more research on that before leaving!  

Welcome along!

I’m happy to have you traveling along with me!  If you have any questions, please ask!  Let’s go exploring!

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