Finally...here!!
Above, a fellow boat on the river. Very few boats when I was there. And entering the Sekonyer River to the park.
On the left, moon rise over the jungle. Image the sounds!!
About 12 years ago, on a shuttle to the airport, I met several women who were in Bali helping educate women about birthing. They were “doula’s” educating and supporting local communities. When they were finished, they were heading to the airport and flying to Tanjung Puting. I had heard of it before but that was when it was really complicate to get there. Now, things have developed to the point where it is easier. Not easy, easier! So I jumped at the opportunity to go.
After dealing with the challenge of what covid requirements I needed to meet to travel, I then started looking into locally owned companies. I like putting money into local communities rather than large corporations. Unfortunately, some of the local companies were still closed and not operating. Others were quite expensive as they only take private parties. I did find an option, two actually, and booked to go.
My primary intent was simply to submerse myself in the natural world! Feel the feeling of the jungle, absorb the sounds, look for monkeys, orangutan and such. The first night and day was exactly that. The last night…something different.
Landing spot!
Walking through the area, I felt like a celebrity. Children stared and nudged their mother, then pointed. “Look mom! A white guy!” Motorbike riders turned and waved. Car and bike drivers passed by shouting “Hello Mister!” I was their highlight for that moment.
Photo on the left is the old village along the waterfront. It was about 4-5 kilometers from my hotel. I listened to the sounds of the mosque as I headed toward the river.
Below…images of the river side village.
Book, confirm, reconfirm, reconfirm…good idea. Three days before flying over, I wrote to the river house I had booked. I told them I was excited to be staying with them and asked for the best way to get there from the airport?
They wrote back confirmed booking? We are closed! I did have a confirmed booking! And they were indeed closed! They were most helpful and responded to my questions very kindly.
One hotel they recommended as an option, because it was close to the river, was Hotel Alibaba! I looked but they only had tiny rooms and shared bathrooms. I wanted space to sort out my things before getting on the boat for three days.
One review of Hotel Alibaba highly recommended the hotel and included a comment, “We have even seen caucasians staying here.” Interesting!
Below, this is the Arut Riverside Guest House. I hope to stay here next time I come for a trip!
Welcome to the river!
I was picked up at my hotel around 10:00 and taken to the village of Kumai where the boats dock before leaving. So exciting! I love being on boats and especially floating peacefully along in nature.
I met the staff: captain, assistant, cook and my guide.
And I was introduced to the boat! These are a few photo’s before we launched.
There was this anomaly!
I assumed the concrete buildings in the background were wharf front warehouses. They are kind of…but they house swallows! Those buildings are full of swallows. The spit is used for making medicine and soap and the nests are sold to China! Amazing!
And there were a LOT of them along the river! This is a major shipping port because of the deep water! As we headed downstream, I was surprised by how many of these lined the shore! And the sound of the swallows was really loud!!
Launch!
The early part of the trip was uneventful. Traveling on the big river until we turned up the Sekonyer river to the park. Palms, which serve a purpose similar to mangroves, lined the river banks. Eventually, more large trees appeared. Then forest and with them, birds and more wildlife! Our first feeding stop was Harrapan and we were lucky, the “king” orangutan was right behind the ranger station.
And then...
A nice hike through the forest to the feeding station, spotting orangutan along the way. A small group of about 10 of us waited the rangers to arrive. We saw more orangutan nests and orangutan in the trees on the walk. Then, more came out of the trees as the bananas were spread out for them!
GLORIOUS!
I felt so fortunate to be here when it was quiet, no crowds, no boat jams, just the peace of the forest! From here we traveled upriver to Harrapan where we docked for the night. Feeding there…I was the only one present! And this is where we went for a night hike. We didn’t see a lot but simply having that experience was awesome! And this is where I met Dayuk…maybe not spelling that properly!
My guide Abu had worked in the part and years ago, Dayuk was brought in. He was severely burned and Abu gave him IV’s to nourish him. Now, he walked along the trail with us to the afternoon feeding.
The image above caught my attention as this is his walking gait. And I was surprised by how quickly he walked!
At this feeding spot, orangutan are more selective in feeding. They don’t all come at once. A male was there and a female with baby. When she left, another came. Very orderly!
And then, night fell!
Showered, sitting to dinner in the dark, the jungle serenade began. Amazing!!!
I woke before sunrise. The night sounds were amazing, the morning sounds even more intense. Different bird songs, different intensities, gibbon howling in the distance…just mesmorizing!
Accomodations!
Staff put out mosquito netting while I was on the night hike! It was really comfortable. A big bed, it consisted of two single mattresses put together. If I didn’t inadvertently place my hand there and push the mattresses apart…yes, learned my lesson once…it was quite comfortable. Very few mosquito’s or bugs!
Video below, glimpse of morning sounds.
I sat up on top of the rear of the boat for hours listening, watching the proboscis monkeys moving through the trees in families. They leap amazing distances between trees. One tree turned into a playground for five infants who played, jumped, leapt, wrestled…like all babies everywhere do. Yes, mesmerizing!
Watching for hours…families eating and passing, macaques on one side of the river, silent observation…perfect! Just the experience I had been yearning for!
Seeing and Looking!
This was a great day! We walked to this feeding station. Only me aside from rangers and Abu my guide! And a host of orangutan.
Walking, quietly, silently, through the forest. Spotting orangutan, hearing a variety of birds, listening to the buzzing of cicada’s, such a great experience.
On to Camp Leakey
I loved floating gently on the river watching and listening. So much activity and on the way to Camp Leakey, the river narrowed with low water so the jungle felt very intimate. Spotted fishing eagle, heard hornbill, saw flocks of different types of parrots, jungle pigeon, etc. Amazing!
I’m going to combine photo’s from both feeding stations in one gallery. There was so much action going on! I took a ton of photo’s. I’m no where near complete with editing them but have a few.
When we turned off the Sekenyor River to head up to Camp Leakey, at the mouth of that turn, the river turned black! I don’t think I have ever been on black water before. However, it reflected EVERYTHING! Amazing. Lots of kingfishers, a ton of monkeys, narrow river, huge trees, what a nice ride!
First collection, images from feeding areas! Process….dock the boat. Abu had registration and park papers he presented. Then, we started walking. Through the jungle. Watching, listening, noticing…shhhh!
Gibbon!
The gibbon is really fast in the tree! So smooth watching them fly around. And this one was sneaky in hanging back, watching for an opportunity, swooping in, grabbing bananas and flying back up to safety.
When too many orangutan were on the platform, the gibbon went after an isolated mother. She was like the one leaving with a handful and mouthful of bananas! Sitting above the orangutan mother, the gibbon quickly swooped close, slapped at the bananas and a couple fell to the ground. Gracefully, the gibbon climbed to the ground, picked up the fallen fruit, and quickly ate it.
A second time, the orangutan was more cautious! Finally, the gibbon swooped, slapped and a couple bananas fell to the ground. This time, before the gibbon could reach them, the baby bearded pigs emerged from the foliage and ate the bananas. Confused, the gibbon hung on the tree about 6 feet above the forest floor looking but not moving.
Quite a show!
Slow river floating entertainment!
There was so much happening on the shores of the river! My neck hurt at times from looking side to side! And so many options for where to look from?! Front of the boat on padded chairs, first observer position. Back of the boat, above the shade covering, on top of the world looking. Under the shade moving from side to side. Awesome!
Below are images I captured from these various positions. Such interesting characters along the river!
Glitch night and morning!
I was so looking forward to another evening and morning like the first one. For some reason, we didn’t stop in the jungle??? We continued well into the evening, in the dark, with no boat lights, navigating by flash light, to dock at the most developed spot on the river??!! So disappointing for me! After waiting for so many years, having so many earlier plans fall apart, spending so much time and money to get here, it was really a downer. Mosque prayers broadcast until at least 10:00…no jungle sounds. Mosque prayers ended…sounds of construction hammering until midnight. UGH! Perfectly NOT what I wanted to experience. Disturbing. Irritating, Disappointing. Frustrating. Certainly not peaceful!
The next morning, early and frequent roosters crowing beside the boat, welcomed sunrise. Not me, but sunrise. So annoying!! I could have been in any village in Indonesia to experience roosters…or Central America for that matter!
There were no jungle sounds. Just noise.I definitely felt short changed by that overnight experience. It was essentially a half- day first day, full day second day and then fizzle evening and morning for me. Not the 3 day experience I dreamt of!
However, my choice is to make the most of things. The company was very responsive when I expressed my concerns and we have good interactions. It won’t help me but it may help future travelers. Once I said what I wanted to communicate, I focused on the highlights packed into my 1 1/2 days of experience. Those moments were amazing and exactly what I wanted.
So accept and be flexible. The truth of the moment…this is where I am right now! And it’s alright. It is where I am!!
And, when I go again, I now know what questions to ask and what to be clear about!
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Peace, quiet, surrounded by natural feel and experience of the jungle. Absorbing the natural rhythm of the plants and trees and animals around me. For example….this might work to help give you a bit of my experience?
It has taken me two days to put this together. Photo’s are still not edited. But, I’m moved. For the first time, I’m experiencing Amed on the North East coast of Bali. My intent: relax, explore, rest, read….enjoy myself doing as little as possible!
Frida influence in Bali!
Entry door to Muse Cafe. Look closely and see the quote from Frida Kahlo. Yes, here influence is worldwide. Wise words!
Now, packing to travel tomorrow!