This is not normally what people think of first about the Yucatan. More tha likely, people think of beaches. However, this is the precise reason I came here, to the village of Valladolid.
When I returned from Costa Rica, I felt a little disappointed and disconnected. Once home, I realized it is a “tourist” culture and not a lot else for me. The city felt soul-less. No history?! The nature in forest there is exceptional when you can finda good and quiet spot! That was definitely the highlight of my trip!
However, it was Semana Santa, Easter. The Caribbean around Cahuita and Puerto Viejo were busy, crowded with Tica’s on vacation, hot and expensive. And, there was little sense of anything historical or cultural to connect with. So I felt strange coming home from that trip and having it not feel like a connection trip as my experiences normally are.
Photo’s: and…. there was the nagging photo editing project I simply couldn’t force myself to do! I wanted to! But too many distractions at home. And, years of travel photo libraries. Multiple trips were merged into one library. I had difficulty finding images I want to use. It was confusing and frustrating mostly because I simply had no momentum going to them and was having a really difficult time even getting started.
Bingo! Regularly, I check airfare to possible destinations. On a Wednesday evening, I saw a $221 direct round trip flight to Cancun. I wrote to mystic favorite hostel in Valladolid and they had a private room with AC! I bought the ticket and three days later, I was packed, organized and flying off to this work adventure! Yes, it was a pretty quick decision and a quick job of packing.
Perfect on so many levels! Minimal clothing and packing was required. Essential technology, connections, external hard drives and that sort of thing. I took my smallest backpack which was only about 3/4 full. There was enough space in it for two new hammocks.
This trip has been perfect in so many ways. I’ve made a ton of progress on organizing photo’s and now, as a result of spending time doing this, have a very clear idea of how to proceed. And, an idea of what I want to end up with.
The private room has been perfect for work and comfort. One day, the “heat index” was 105° around 2:00 pm. I was in my room working. And when I am out, I was meeting and talking with other guest, relaxing in the Zocolo, walking to lock restaurants and such. I’ve had amazing connections and conversation!
I feel like I had been going for much longer than 9 days. And when I go walking, I’m actually apart of something. A community. A city. Family owned restaurants and food cards. History everywhere. Cobblestone streets. Friendly locals. Perfect!
Valladolid
Sweet little historic town midway between Cancun and Merida. Mostly, it’s known as the closest town to Chichen Itza. Piste is closer but much smaller.
I find it a tranquil and inviting place. Others find it boring and uninteresting. I love the history, Yucatecan food, local people, and the Zocolo/central plaza is one of my favorites spots to simply sit, observe life around me and enjoying!
Merida for the weekend
I love Merida! My first experience there was 1988. OF course it had grown and changed. However, the historical integrity of the central town has been preserved. It is a bigger city and felt less inviting than Valladolid to me. However, I went to my favorite spot to buy hammocks, Hammocks Rada. They buy from artisans in local pueblos. This is the old traditional method of hammock making. And while nylon is more durable, I prefer the warmth and comfort of cotton. They also have a store at Amazon and a page on Facebook so just search for Hammocks Rada if you would like a new hammock.
There are two other highlights for me in Merida beside getting new hammocks. I love walking around Mercado San Benito! I’ve been there at Christmas time when all the local pueblos come in shopping. It’s shoulder to shoulder with everyone nearly 1 1/2 foot shorter than me! And the stalls! Everything is there! It’s disorienting, hot, tons of aromas, overwhelming for the senses and absolutely lovely!
The other experience I love is the Bici Ruta bicycle ride on Sunday mornings. Normally, Paseo Monetjo is closed. It’s a street designed after Champs Elysees in Paris and once home to the original wealthy of Merida. During covid, it’s shortened. Normally, it goes all the way to the Zocolo and then continues South along cobblestone streets into the old part of Merida. I love doing that ride!
Final days...
Looking for a place to get a covid antigen test before my flight home, I found a hotel in Cancun that offered those plus they had transport to the airport. And, I haven’t ever stayed in one of those deluxe hotels right on the beach. For a discount of $60 a night, why not.
The food was expensive, a simple breakfast cost over half my private hostel room. They couldn’t make edible scrambled eggs, the coffee was undrinkable…and that was just my first hour there waiting for my covid test.
When I walked down for my 11:30 appointment, five people were waiting in line, some since 10:00 am. No one was there. When the lab staff finally showed up about 20 minutes later, they didn’t have a key to the room. Pretty disorganized. And, for a rapid test generating results in 1 to 2 hours, their results took 9 hours. It was a little disconcerting going to bed not knowing for certain if I would have a negative test the next day for travel.
The one thing I went there to experience was great: relaxing on the beach under an umbrella, an occasional swim to cool off, reading a good book, having a nice cold beer (delivered in a tub of ice) and simply relaxing. That part was great!
The “shuttle” to the airport cost $700 pesos. The local bus, $98 pesos. Uber, $247 pesos. Seems like every little corner to make some money, they took advantage of. I was required to pay an additional tax of $27 pesos for the lab test. But I had to pay the lab directly, the hotel had nothing to do with it. Go figure!
I came home feeling fulfilled, inspired by my work on the photo’s and rejuvenated. My travel preferences were confirmed and I learned new ways to do what I want, stay in the local village longer and still be able to travel by bus directly to my flight. Lovely!
Somewhere in the world!
Before going to Merida for the first time, Lonely Planet warned about how aggressive hammock salesmen could be. Their instructions: after being asked again and again if you want to see hammocks, answer: NO! I DO NOT WANT TO SEE HAMMOCKS!
I braced myself when I went to the Zocolo. As a man with a bundler of hammocks hanging from his shoulder approached, I noticed they were hanging by a really good quality perlon climbing rope?! And then the man caught me off guard asking, “Would you like to see how hammocks are made?” Clearly, this was different and certainly interesting. He began unloading hammocks to get to the board at the bottom they were all sitting on. He picked up the photo’s, showed me the hammock frames and began explaining how hammocks are made. Curious, I wanted to see more!
He gave me directions. The two French Canadian medical students I had met joined me the next day as a second class bus took us to his village, Tixkokob. It’s a village where hammock making technique is passed on from generation to generation. I learned how the system works. And somewhere in the world, there was once a hammock that I helped thread!
I ordered two hammocks from Juan. When I returned after traveling through Belize and Guatemala, we met in the plaza to give me my new hammocks. Proudly, he pulled one up and stood on top of a park bench letting the hammock drop while he raised his hand over my head…”mucho grande por mucho grande por mi amigo Larry”! He wanted me to know he made sure the body was long enough to fit me. So yes, I have an affection for hammocks from there.
The people at Hammocks Rada know him and he continues making hammock chairs for them.
Photos: Larry, the hammock maker! Another of life’s little adventures!
