Luang Prabang is much changed! About 20 kilometers before the town, a new dam will eventually interrupt the flow of the Mekong River. Shut off! Perhaps they will have some sort of lock system for the little boats to pass but no one knows.
In the morning, on the street bordering the Mekong, bumper to bumper tourist vans line up as far as the eye can see. Locals told me it is for the Chinese tourist! That is different. The night market is HUGE and chaotic. Every street and alley has some type of booth set up. The food court is immense Where the night market covered a few blocks, it is long and massive as well! Walking through there was impossible with a narrow isle and people stopping to shop.
I’m so happy I did come back to experience this one more time before things change more dramatically!
A few days have passed since my last blog posting. It feels like weeks! Looking back, it is difficult to put everything in to words that have happened or that I have experienced! Amazing!
As time flies by, I’m getting a sense that before long, I’ll have that feeling that before long, I’ll be headed home. It’s over a month but still, I have that sense.
Days are rich and full!
The boat trip down the Mekong was great! The day before, when a friend went on the public boat, they caught up with the other public boat. Engine troubles immobilized that boat. Thus, all 100 passengers cam onto his boat. It started taking water and there was some concern of capsizing! They made but hours late! Likely, due to the caution of the boat captain. I was impressed by my captain and his skill on the river!
On the Mekong River
The day I left, I was picked up at my hotel and driven to the dock. Tables had names for each of us to know where to sit. As I approached my table, a twoman there aasked me if I would switch so their friend could sit with them. No worries! I joined Gerhart and Maria from Germany. He’s recently retired. They travel whenever they get the chance. I met two women from France. A young couple from Holland. And had conversations with most people on the boat.
My boat: we had 25 people on board. Great service as I was picked up, and taken to the boat, and they had coffee and tea waiting. On the way, we had two trips into villages and the Pak Ou cave with 4,000 Buddhas. The cook staff prepared an excellent lunch for us each day. Great experience! I found a long relaxing seat and spent most of the stay there stretched out or sitting on a bench in front of the captain in the fresh air!
We arrived in Pak Beng and were taken to our respective hotels. I went to an economy hotel that was quite nice. Immediately, I set off walking through the village, watched the sunset and found a spot for dinner.
Village life, interesting yet strange!
It was interesting visiting the villages. However, they cater to tourist and their life revolves around that so they felt a bit contrived. However, we got to see the specialty of each village whether it was the weaving or the whiskey making.
Public boat, functional but not so comfortable!
A group of 7 younger “kids” who had been on the public boat were having dinner and engaged in conversation about how much rum they drank that day. They were reflecting on how cool the islands and parties in Southern Thailand were. And they were generally bitching about everything else with profanity liberally sprinkled in. I have never heard any profanity from a local so that struck me as very disrespectful. They appeared not to care.
I’ve mentioned how Chinese and other tourist tend to be really loud and not aware of their impact on others. These were the same! Beer and rum to pass the day! Then off to a restaurant for more beers. Then the party bar. Then the boat!
I walked back to my hotel and had the best sleep I have had in weeks! A great mattress and functional air conditioning system! Next morning, I was at breakfast by 6:45 and on the boat around 7:30. Another great day of slowly cruising down the river. I thoroughly enjoyed it but then, I am one who knows how to simply “be”, stay present, and enjoy the moment.
Morning alarm!
We were taken to out hotel in Luang Prabang and that portion of my journey began. One noticeable difference here was how quiet my room was in the night! In the jungle, I was woken by the 25 jumping monkeys landing on my metal roof! In Luang Namtha, i was woken by the competing rooster crows beginning well before sunrise. And for variety, in Huay Xai, it was the rooster followed quickly by quacking duck! Apparently, it didn’t want to be left out! QUACK! QUACK.
Travel and exploring mode
I love walking around town exploring places, markets, people-watching, and such. Two days ago, I rented a mountain bike to go touring. It is the nicest bike I have ever seen in my travels thanks to a man who recommended the shop. I rode for hours exploring both sides of the river. Temples, stupa’s, paper making, silk weaving, etc. all part of the life of people on the outside of Luang Prabang. I loved that experience!
After riding about 6 K and getting to the farthest point on that side of the river, my bike seat came loose and tipped back. If you know that portion of the bike seat is higher than the front and enables you to put pressure on your pedals especially riding uphill. In my case, the opposite was true, i had to fight to keep from slipping off! Once I made it back and got the seat tightened, I headed off in the other direction. It was HOT. I found a nice place for a fruit shake and then headed back after close to 6 hours in the saddle! Awesome day!
The next day, I rented a motor bike to go to the waterfalls that are famous here! Again, two people told of one shop near where I was staying. Again, this was the nicest motorbike I have rented. Comfortable. New! Good shocks. Good power and acceleration. Easy handling!
I had a blast going through the country side past open air restaurants and rice fields to the waterfalls. I got there early and stayed about 3 hours. The colors kept changing and I cycled around playing with photographs! I stopped for lunch on the way back and then toured around the city some before turning the bike in at 5:00.
I feel everyone is familiar with spell ckecking software correcting words in to errors! I had a first experience with google translate! Normally, I consider it to be accurate and helpful. For once, it was simply funny! Three van drivers were resting in front of the coffee shop when I was leaving. I needed to fill the bike up with gas before returning it. How do you communicate that in a country where you don’t know the language?
First, they thought I indicated I needed air for the tires? Then, I pantomimed the purring motor and holding the handle on a gas pump, pointing to the cap for the gas on my bike. All three finally knew what I wanted but they laughed in frustration now knowing any way to communicate it. I realized they were indicating I should go straight and then turn left. Then, to confirm what I was thinking, one man got his phone out for a translation. I have no ideas what he said but here is what I saw on his screen.
“First, you are lazy. Then, turn left!” Ha! How did he know!?!?!
Kuang Si waterfill motor bike trip
Morning alms walk
This morning, I left my hotel before 5:30 to go experience the morning alms walk. I didn’t know where to go but headed in the general direction. A short alley dead ended at a wall and I turned left. Immediately, I was approached by a woman carrying a food offering bamboo container motioning in gestures if I wanted to use it? I motioned to my camera and signaled no.
A short distance ahead, tiny stools lined the side of the street! I wandered into the place where the monks from the local temple begin their walk. No crowds! Only reverent people on the side of the street! It was perfect! After those monks passed, I walked up to the main road to have a look.
The last time I was here, that street was chaos! Packs of Chinese tourists stood on the side walk preventing the monks from moving! The monks looked irritated! It is considered disrespectful to be standing taller than the monks, thus, the small stools or people sitting on the sidewalk!
Today, I was pleasantly surprised by the order. Hundreds of locals and tourists lined the sidewalk with space for the monks to walk by! Tour groups had a guide instructing then on what to do and not to do. Locals moved people off the sidewalk when they stood up there. It was very smooth and organized. And, it was amazing!! I’m so happy I got to see that!
Serendipidity! Coincidence! Guidance!
Coincidences continue happening bringing me what I need when I need it! Again, I am sensitive to any feeling that I am pushing things, forcing a decision or something else to happen. I had not been able to find a good place to stay in Nong Khiaw.
Today, a man recommended a great place that is not on the internet. Tomorrow, I’ll arrive and go wandering to find a place. The next day, I’m staying in a more luxurious riverside hotel which will be fun!
Today was interaction day! I took photos of a man with a walker offering food to the monks. We walked down the street together. He showed me where he lived and he loved the photos I took of him. After coffee, I walked back. His son was there. I sent the photos to his son’s phone to share. I got a message tonight thanking me!
A man with a long grey beard and hair sat not far from me at the restaurant. We chatted as he left. We both love the quiet and cool of the morning before the day gets crazy. I checked out of my hotel after 10:00 and walked 10 minutes to my new place. My room wasn’t ready so I went to Joma Bakery for coffee and a cinnamon roll When I came back, that same man was sitting at one of the tables. He was leaving and has been to Laos about 25 times. He recommended a couple of places that I had not heard of! I’ll post a couple of links.
One is for a restaurant that he said has been recognized as one of the most sustainable restaurants in the world. After seeing country restaurants on the ride to the waterfall, each with its large garden out back, I am curious. When I come back, I’ll see if I can here there. It is all Laotian inspired by one tribe. So it should be interesting! Flowing! Plopped right into my lap. Now confirmed!
Have a look: Bio Bamboo Hueanphae Nam Oh
Travel days!
I’m traveling for a few days and may not have any connection! Great! I’ll let you know when I get back online!
Take care!
