Flowing along, learning from experience being here rather than what I read from afar, and adapting constantly it seems. Such a good practice! I remember reading years ago, in the ages when people still traveled with “Lonely Planet”, about how current information was in the most current travel edition for a country. A photographer who worked for them told me the information I am reading might be two years old before it goes to press! Naturally, things changed and the book wasn’t as accurate as it could have been.
Since then, the world has sped up even more. Anyone with a keyboard can post a story, blog, or vlog sometimes pretending to be an expert but sharing information that is not currently very accurate. In my reading and preparation for this trip, I tuned up my BS sensitivity to high to discern whether what I was reading was intended to be helpful or was marketed to increase clicks, likes, subscriptions, and income. When I read “everything you need to know about Bukit Lawang from our 48 hours there”, I knew the information would be a bit shallow and certainly not comprehensive. My filtering system got stronger.
And then….let go, take a step, ask questions, learn and adjust. That has happened here. First, a bit about how I got here.
A few days have passed. I’ve smoothly crossed the border, spent a few days in Huay Xai and am not in Luang Namtha. I’ve met many new friends, have had great conversation and tried some terrific meals. I’ve also had my first Laos Baguette sandwich which was just as I remembered! And, things have changed more than I imagined. Thus, I’m changing plans on the fly, adapting, moving differently. And it feels perfect!
Smooth border crossing!
Initially, my plan was to have a relaxing breakfast, head to the border midmorning, and take my time being patient getting through. I woke very early, sipped coffee by the pool and felt like it was time to go so, off I went! No one was stirring when I left.
As usual, I started my day with a meditation. This time, I did two things. First, I simply took slow easy breaths with the intention of quieting my mind and body. That’s easier the first thing in the morning. And I like beginning that way as the energy is easier to carry through the day. Second, I imagined and felt my future travel as being easy, smooth, flowing and bringing me perfectly to my next hotel.
The bus station was a long way from the hotel. I walked to the street and a Tuk Tuk driver was waiting so off we went.
The trip took me about 20 minutes. There were NO buses which I took as a good sign. Getting through the Thailand side was a breeze. Next, I bought a ticket for the bus taking everyone to the Laos border on the other side. It is not unusual for people to wait 30 minutes until the bus is full. I waited 5 minutes! Smooth!
On the other side, it was chaos. Large groups of people were randomly scattered through the immigration area. No one was there to help! I found an ATM and got some Laos kip $2,000,000 kip…about $100 US. Then, found a line that looked like where I needed to go. I learned that the crowd were organized tour groups all being processed at the same time. No worries, I’m patient!
Eventually, after perhaps 30 minutes or more of standing in lines, I was through and on to Laos. They have pickup trucks with bench seats lining both sides of the back. They normally don’t go until full. Groups filled those already there and then it was just me. Two people came out but they were going to a different place! I wondered if our destinations were that far apart, them the slow boat to Luang Prabang and me to my hotel. The coordinator couldn’t figure that out on his own but said, yes, we could share.
Arriving with shock in Huay Xai, Laos.
This “little” village has changed so much in 9 years, I hardly recognized it! Busy! Lots of people about. More hotels. Certainly more restaurants. And, a coffee shop, a real sit down and enjoy your coffee kind of place. They also had strong internet connection.
My hotel was as I remembered, simple, basic, very nice with balconies front and back! The owner was there, I paid and he handed me my key. My room was up two flights of stairs. However, I remembered the back balcony looking out over the Mekong River which is worth the climb!
Having lunch, I met Job from Nederland. We had a great conversation. He’s on his first solo trip like this! That’s how you begin, start!
He said he was going to the Gibbon Experience Office to check in for his trek the next day. I went along to talk with them. I told them I had been on a trip nearly 10 years ago and expressed how much I enjoyed that experience. In all my travels, that is one clear highlight! Vong asked me if I wanted to go again. Remembering how challenging it was back then and knowing my knees were recovering from the brutal trek in Sumatra, I told him no, and explained why. Then, he told me that the 3-day discovery trek was easier than the trek I had done before. REALLY!! Only 2 1/2 hour trek after lunch, mixed with zip line travel, to reach the tallest treehouse in the world.
Since that previous experience was so special, I yearned to go again! However, they were booked. The trip is for only 6 people, they were full until later this month and rarely had cancellations! I got on the waiting list just in case! It would be great to be able to do that!
And, things always work out for me! If it was meant for me, someone would cancel and I’d be off. That didn’t happen. And that is OK!
Luang Namtha, huge changes!
I watched the sunset over the Mekong River! Enjoyed my day, and then took an early bus to Luang Namtha. Similar to previous arrangements, there are not really taxis around! I went to a hotel, bought a ticket at 6:30 am, was picked up at 8:00 and was on the bus by 9:00. Somehow, I was put into the perfect seat for me! Lots of legroom! The bus was packed! And, in 2024, the roads are dramatically improved! The drive took less than four hours including lunch break. I remember it being long and feeling really beat up when I arrived last time!
I walked from the local bus station to Zuela where I think I stayed before. They had one room left and it was perfect for me. Second floor. Nice breeze. Warm afternoons give way to very cool nights for excellent sleeping. Nice!
Across the street from Zuela is the Night Market. So close!
Asking questions, making adjustments!
Very quickly, I learned that the highlight village of Muang Sing…is no longer a highlight. Chinese have moved in and taken over the town. No more home stays. Set menu’s in the restaurants. The hill tribes are still there but they remain in their villages. I felt disappointed but accepted reality quickly! Everything is changing and I have learned to adapt quickly! The question was, how?
One tour company was very clear about how much the village has changed. I thought about going up anyway on Saturday morning for their market. It’s at least a 90-minute motor bike ride. He reminded me of the changes, and that it is dry season so there is a lot of dust and smoke from fires burning rice fields. That decided it for me!
Now, I’m taking a motor bike for a 40-kilometer tour of the Luang Namtha valley area. There are ethnic tribes here, temples and stupas as well, weaving communities and waterfalls, and those kinds of attractions. I didn’t do that last time so will do that tomorrow. And, I will likely ride up the highway in the direction of Muang Sing to see the local villages I went through last time. Adjusting!
Adapting and things working out smoothly!
I did not want to spend three extra days in this village, it has changed completely since I was last here! I’d rather have extra days hanging out in Luang Prabang but my trip with Nagi of the Mekong didn’t leave until the 21st. That’s too long now. So what to do?
First, I wrote to the boat company asking them to let me know if they had a cancellation. Within an hour, they wrote telling me they had a trip leaving on the 18th with room for me….perfect! I checked and my hotel here was able to sell me a bus ticket with transport to the bus station on the 17th. Next, I contacted my hotel in Huay Xai and Luang Prabang and both were able to juggle dates and everything fell into place! Smooth! And it came with that internal feeling of ease and flow!
This morning, I intended to rent a motorbike and go exploring. It was early but, they ran out of bikes to rent. As a result, I visited the morning market, walked to the Museum to learn more about local ethnic tribes, and found the “White House” coffee shop on my way back. I spent the afternoon editing photos. Now, I’m editing and writing and will spend the day tomorrow exploring local villages. Perfect!
This city was sleepy, little traffic on the main road, mostly motor bikes, bicycles, occasional truck or bus and a few cars. Now, it is a thoroughfare and surprisingly busy! When I read that China put in a bullet train two years ago, I knew things were going to change quickly. I hadn’t realized it would be this quick!
Boys riding electric motor bike enthusiastic about having photo taken! Above!
Next up, two day trip down the Mekong River.
Many, perhaps most people, arriving in Laos from Thailand go directly to the two day slow boat to Luang Prabang. Many companies are set up facilitating that adventure as far away as Chiang Rai, Thailand. They don’t see Huay Xai or come anywhere near where I am. In spite of changes, I am happy to be walking around this village again. Clearly, it is NOT one of the most friendly places I have visited. However, the children beam smiles at me and say hello all the time.
The climate has changed. It is cooler and more grey. Last time, afternoon was scorching, now it is quite comfortable! Smoke from burning rice fields and haze keeps the sky from turning really blue! Yes, this is a unique Laos experience.
One other change: the disease or condition of “nose/eyes stuck to mobile phone screen” is strong here! Very surprising and again, not really!
A day of motor bike touring. A day of travel. Then I will be on the boat heading for Luang Prabang. Very surreal again, going from recently reading and dreaming about this and now here on the ground experiencing it!
I’ve read that Luang Prabang is suffering a bit from crowds of Chinese tourist visiting. I’ll find out in a few days. The thing about Luang Prabang for me is it is central to a lot of exploration options for me. I’ll leave and take a couple days in Nong Khiaw. I asked a tour office about getting there from Luang Prabang, also traveling to the Plain of Jars. He cautioned me that new dams have changed the river there but the village is still nice. Those are two places I plan to explore. And I found a nice place outside Luang Prabang in the forest to go for a couple night of nature and waterfalls!
As I write this I’m surprised that I have been traveling for a month already?! It seems like no time has passed and it seems like I have been experiencing this adventure for ages. I focus on staying as fully present moment to moment each day and it feels like that affects my perception of time.
For now, that’s it. I’ll write when I reach Luang Prabang after the boat trip! Ciao!
