Today, I had a lazy start to the day. It’s the first time in weeks I haven’t gotten up before 5:30! I went back to sleep and got up at 7:30 happy I missed the dolphin watching trip. The guides are so hungry for money, they parked on my friend Mono’s bungalow porch, signed up Mono and Marianna and attempted to get me to go with them.
I told them I’ve seen a lot of dolphin already, wild dolphin in the Togian Islands, more near Komodo and another group or two played off our boat on the way back to Labuan Bajo. At 8:00, I was having breakfast when Marian returned reporting NO dolphin were spotted today. Breakfast was simple and good. I went to sit by the pool and got into a great conversation with Mono.
He is from Indonesia, teaches English in a small vilalge on Java and spent 10 years living in Washington, D.C.. What an interesting man! Most of the children in the village where he lives and teaches have one or no parent around. Jobs are scarce, parents go off where there is work and leave kids with a relative. They have no guidance in their life, generally don’t complete their education, have no goals in life, and can get caught up in hanging out in a village with no work.
Perhaps it’s his calling to be a village role model for a while, the children are certainly fortunate to have him around!
He mentioned that he missed life in the US, had a great life in D.C. but was stressed by it. It’s expensive to live in the US, there was pressure to be putting money away for retirement, and it was a challenging world to live in.
In his current life, he said he has never been happier. He makes little money, does meaningful work, makes a difference and lives simply. Money doesn’t matter and he is focused on living rather than saving now to live someday….maybe.
The front desk called a company that delivered a motor bike for me. I asked for an automatic thinking it would be easier to ride in the mountains but it took a while to get used to it. When Mono and I finished talking, I headed off for the hot springs and the Buddhist Temple while he went off for his own adventure.
The hot springs are quiet before 1:00, after that the tour buses arrive. It was very quiet with only 10 people there. Two were from Italy and made more noise than the rest! Two hours of soaking, a nice lunch, and a rest in the sun was perfect.
I headed to the Buddhist Temple. It felt different, almost sad. The energy was flat, the people who worked there demonstrated no enthusiasm or energy and the room that felt so amazing last time was ordinary this time around. Several people were walking around apparently participating in some sort of personal growth and meditation program. Eyes with far off looks, angry faces, no smiles, I was happy to leave.
I’ve been told there a healer up the road from the temple and went searching for her. No luck but I did enjoy a gorgeous mountain side, friendly people. lots of hello’s shouted and a ton of green. Wonderful!
On the way back, I found a large supermarket and bought a few things for my ride up the mountains tomorrow. And on the way back, this might shock some of you, I found a bakery! I must have radar or something! I bought a chocolate roll to have during my drive up the mountain tomorrow.
Back at the hotel, a quick dip int he pool, swimming a few laps and the rain hit. Great timing. I went for a quick ride on my motor bike to see if I could spot Mono but had no luck. Now, I’m sitting in “Buga Restaurant” finishing a tuna fish and chips. The tuna was caught and delivered hours ago, don’t you just hate old stale fish?!
Last night as I was leaving the beach, I went back on a hunch to let Sage and Heather know about Bali New Year this Thursday. Instead of helping them, they helped me as I learned it might start Thursday but the silent day is Saturday!
Balinese New Year, NYEPI, falls on Saturday March 5th. NYEPI in english means silent or quiet. The Balinese calendar is based on a lunar system with months consisting of 35 days and a year being 420 days long.
One day before NYEPI, rituals and ceremonies are performed to confuse and frighten bad spirits. It’s believed that the spirits of the underworld are fond of fresh chicken blood so a chicken is killed and the blood spilled to distract the spirits.
Every compound will do a cleansing ritual to scare away bad spirits that live there including lots of loud noises and banging and music. Burning torches are also used to scare away bad spirits.
Then, nothing! At dark, everything stands still. Hotel Angsoka where I’m staying here in Lovina put literature at every bungalow to let guests know what is coming. It describes the following:
AMATI KARYA. Amati in English meand dead or do not. Karya means work. So Amati Karya means doing no work. On Saturday, Balinese are supposed to do no kind of work.
AMATI GENI. Geni means fire. No fire is lit.
AMATI LELUNGAAN. Lelungaan means traveling. No traveling is done.
AMATI LELANGUAN. Lelanguan means entertainment. No entertainment is performed or enjoyed.
There is no travel on that day, the streets are empty. No flights come in or out of Bali and I’ve heard that airlines reroute flights not to go over Bali. No food is cooked with the exception of local family compounds taking care of their guests. Balinese stay inside for a day of complete quiet.
Being silent, the bad spirits think everyone is gone and leave or at leave things alone. It’s the way they start the new year here for it.
It fits perfectly into my schedule and final days here. I’ll leave tomorrow for Munduk in the mountains, come back to Lovina Thursday and be on the shuttle back to Ubud on Friday. Saturday, I’ll be at Dewa’s for the day and, as a guest, I am allowed to enjoy the pool but won’t leave the family compound.
When I get back, I’ll talk to Dewa about ordering in some Lumpia for me and have some bread and snacks on hand. Well, maybe an almond croissant or chocolate donut or chocolate bar or can of Moka Coffee or…..yes, I’ll have options, food and be alright.