Our boat cruised noisily through the islands, no muffler on one of the engines only added to the uniqueness of the experience. The green hills were unlike anything I’d seen on my trip and reminded me a little of photo’s of Ireland. After a long haul, sitting on top in the sun, and watching several different pods of dolphin escort us, we arrived at Rinca Island. It’s in the Komodo National Park but is less known and I was told it’s a bit more natural.
We hadn’t reached the end of the docks when we saw our first dragon. Stories abound of rangers being treed by these creatures. They are faster than a horse for about 30 feet but then fizzle out. That provides the safety zone, stay 30 feet away. A young man grabbed a stick and guided us to the ranger station where we needed to pay. We saw another Komodo relaxing in the shade before we reached there!
That’s the life of a Komodo, lay in the sun to warm up, move to the shade to cool off, eat once a month or so, then repeat the cycle.
Our fees included a park admission fee, a tax to the government, camera fee, and a fee for a ranger to guide us. This amounted to about $105,000 each. The camera fee was the highest!
Our ranger was great and we set off through the camp. Before we got far, we saw the largest Komodo yet lazing under a building, there were seven of them in the area. A great photo opportunity and then we were off to walk the trail through the trees, keeping a close eye to the sides. It was hot, the Komodo generally laying in the shade that time of the day and we were past their primary feeding time which happens in the early morning.
Don has seen a documentary that suggested Komodo actually have some sort of poison they put into their victims. It’s generally been accepted that it’s the bacteria in their saliva that causes infection which eventually immobilized their victim. In either case, it’s best to give them a safe distance!
Our walk was lovely, we encountered no wild or hungry dragons, saw three of their nesting locations and thoroughly enjoyed the forest we walked through. We saw a wild chicken type bird at one point but I don’t know the name of it.
The dragons build false nest to confuse predators. They dig one meter down and then one meter sideways before depositing the 30 to 40 eggs they lay. At night, they come back to protect the nest, the female’s that is! Once the little one hatch, only about 10 to 20% survive. They head for the trees for protection and often look for the ficus tree because of all the protective nooks. One of their predators, their mother. She will eat them. From baby to dinner in a short time!
We snorkeled our way to Komodo, amazing fish and coral life and then were surprised we were heading on to Komodo that afternoon. It turned out to be perfect. Late afternoon, birds roosting, the forest full of sounds, the Komodo Dragon in the forest and around the buildings in front, wonderful. A perfect day!
We cruised off to Bat Island where we sat and watched Flying Fox’s leave the mangroves, a noisy racket as they started getting active, and then flew across to the village of Komodo and unsuspecting fruit. During the early morning, the chatter picked up once again as they returned.
We slept on the gently rocking deck of the boat with pads and blankets and pillows and a blanket of stars overhead.
We woke to sunrise, had breakfast and started the long cruise back toward Labuan Bajo. Initially, we were told we’d be doing a trek in the morning at Komodo. With clouds forming and rain falling, we were happy our captain changed plans. On the way, we stopped at an amazing place for snorkeling where I saw a huge variety of coral formations, a sea snake, lots of sea cucumber and slugs, a ton of fish and more. I was freezing but didn’t want to get out of the water. I’ll go there again but with sunlight I hope to get a different vies.
Last night, I had Valentine’s DInner with Don and Brit at The Lodge, I had calamari with salad and fries. It was pretty good but no match for my memory of the wonderful calamari awaiting my return to Lovina in North Bali.
Now, I must pack and get ready to go to the Island of Seraya for four days of relaxing and snorkeling. My boat leaves in less than an hour. I’ll write when I get back to civilization!