Change of Pace!
NOW….things are slowing down! I’m in my final destination. My intentions are clear and things are falling into place! So what is different?
A different type of exploration!
How did I get here? What did it take? How to I plan and search and put travel plans together? More on that in a little bit. I’ll reveal some of the background work that takes place in order for my trip to unfold smoothly. And I’m using the word “smoothly” in a very general sense! All kinds of smooth ufold including taking 9 shuttles over 12 1/2 hours to reach my destination in Northern Guatemala…but reach it I did! That is a unique type of “smooth”!
Before, I was intent on visiting places that were favorites or locations in Southern Guatemala I haven’t visited in over a decade. Things are changing quickly and I wanted to travel about seeing my old favorite spots and experiencing how they are now! For me, it was a bit shocking!
Some places were beyone recognition! Antugua was a villate with people awlking about and setting up little market stalls all dressed in traditional Guatemalan village attire. Those have largely been raplaced by lots of tourist and roads crowded with cars and trucks! Cars! In Antigua? Yes, everything changes and now Antigua feels like a colonial tourist city rather than and old historic town it was!
Panajachel had walking streets lined all the way to the lake with individual vendor clothing. Today, it is lined with shops and cafes and cars and trucks! The flavor is completely different. And the travelers are different as well. In the past, there was an air of adventure about backpackers I met there. In Antigua as well! Once, Antigua was known for it’s language schools, reportedly registering over 120 schools. USDA and other agencies sent people there to learn Spanish. There was a vibe to people learning. The challenge at that time was being out of school, everyone spoke English to each other. That is a very confusing way to learn Spanish. Now, it is much more easy to find English speakers everywhere.
The lake has become popularized. The old “gringo” trail has been replaced by the tourist trail. Bucket lists travelers! Checking off the villages they saw on a day trip! Simply a very different energy.
Guatemala was once a very inexpensive country to travel in! In local villages away from tourist, that is likely true today. But where tourist are, prices have soared. It was easy to spend $10-$15 a day, some backpackers spent less, on everying. Now, one meal costs that much.
What is evident is the rise of a wealthy class and the poor remaining poor. Progress!
Changes in a different way...
The last few years traveling in Mexico, and before that talking with people from Mexico around Longmont, I heard people talking about plans to move back to Mexico. They prefer the pace of life, family connection and generally, the style of life there. I’ve met people on this trip who moved out of the country or back to their home country for the same reason.
The difference in the pace of life is palpable! People walk slow, smile a lot, stop and chat! Drivers deomonstrate a courtesy to each other in very crowded driving conditions!
I met a woman in El Tunco who moved from Northern Virginia, just outside DC, to Sal Salvador about 18 months ago. She was from here but lived in the US for decades! At one point, she realized her “work ethic” was destroying her 25 year marriage. She was stressed all the time and eventually, decided to make a change. At one point she was ready to divorce her husband, let that part of her life go, to continue working.
But for what? She got caught up in that rhythm, momentum carried her along, and she lost sight of her priorities.
I saw her the next morning in the office busy but relaxed behind the counter. I asked her how differene her commute to work this morning was from her commute in DC! She laughed. An easy smile, bright eyes and relaxed shoulders.
I met a nurse from Ireland moving to Australia for similar reasons. She is transitioning to travel nursing and has set up interviews with agencies there. A lot of people I’ve met have engaged in similar conversations! I love those connections!
Things that are different!
I selected a room here because it listed having air conditioning. However, once here, they told me that was extra! It costs $11 a night. The dorms here cost $7 a night. For many people $11 is prohibitive. The concrete structure holds so much heat and is reluctant to release, I had a miserable night last night. At one point, I sat my fan outside my open door attempting to pull in some cool air!
Yes, toilet paper goes into a waste basket, never in the toilet!
My last room was strangely designed! The strange part, I could barely squeeze past the sink to reach the toilet. I mean BARELY! Here, the toilet is not fastened solidly to the floor. I guess that could be considered a moderate “core exercise”!?
No hot water! None! I may have some when I leave and go to higher and colder areas. Down here, it is actually very refreshing. The hardest part, getting over the mindset of showeing in cold water. It is not Colorado cold water.
I’ve had a couple rooms with TV’s. None so far has worked or revealed any channels. I don’t want to watch but am curious! Advertising a room having a TV is a big deal but none have actually functioned!
Local food! I’m now in places, after leaving popular areas of Guatemala, where I am able to find good local food for a very affordable price. Tasty, delicious, locally made traditional food! I lvoe it!
Even thought I’m in a coffee country, I’ve not had a good cup of coffee for days. Today, I walked to a French place with “outstanding coffee and the best Almond Croissant”! I feel sorry for the person writing that as it is obvious they have never had a really good cup of coffee or a fresh made croissant. I’m feeling an impulse to do some backing when I get home! Yes….a good capuccino and awesome home made croissant!
Organic traffic flow! There is an organic pattern to how traffic moves. The streets are narrow with vehicles parked on both sides. Intersections have no lights. Yet, I have not once seen an accident. Drivers approach cautiously and respectfully! Pedestrians look for a small break and traffic slows to allow them across! Awesome!
More travel surprises! Cigars!
I learned that Esteli is the Cigar Capital of Nicaragua! Some say they rival Cuban cigars! The hostel I’m staying at offers tours of the cigar producting and rolling process. Certainly not something I had been planning on but I’m curious about the artistry involved in the process!
A story about cigars here: Esteli Cigars
Pause....
Whew! I’m in Leon, Nicaragua. WiFi is very slow. Some features for editing my blog don’t show up here. I’m trying to cut and paste but it often doesn’t work and it’s taking hours!! I started this at 11:00 this morning, took a lunch break, it’s now 5:00. Still not sure how it will come together. I’m taking an ice cream break! I’m not sure where to find it or if I will but the walk will be good for me!
I’ll be back!
Travel planning, behind the curtain!
Above, the images represent segments of my trip. Once I was back in Antigua, that was the starting point for several days of transfers and exploration.
If you have ever booked a tour, you likely pack your bag, head to the airport and everything is arranged for you. When I leave, I arrange almost everything, on the fly, adapting as I go along! I coordinate with holidays and busy seasons, make reservations when required, show up when not and things work out. Flexibility and patience are essential!! Some examples and explanations follow.
From Antigua, I wanted to go to Ruta de los Flores in El Salvador. I could have taken the chicken bus which would have required several transfers plus some arragement at the border. I knew the company Gekko Trails had a shuttle. I booked, had a 30-45 minute window for pick up and waited. They picked me up, helped with border crossing, changed shuttles once and after 6 hours or so of travel, I was in Juayua, El Salvador. Great!
From there to San Salvador, there were local buses. People told me different things, different bus numbers and such so I talked to one of the men working with the bus a day early. They didn’t have a specific departure time. I walked down. My bus arrived, took me to the village of Sosonate and the bus station there. I got off and asked about the bus to El Salvador and was herded to the right bus. I got an Uber from the bus station and arrived at my hostel 3 hours after departure. Even though they told me it was alright to arrive early, they were very deliberate in NOT letting anyone into a dorm early! Empty dorms in some cases. I waited, walked, explored, waited some more and was finally let into my room.
From San Salvador to Tunco beach, I was told to take bus number 102. Some people advised me to take bus 102A, an airconditioned bus a bit more comfortable. Others advices me to take the chicken bus 102, it was cheaper. Challenge: I was given multiple locations for where the bus departed!! I walked back from the City Center and located it! Good plan!
Price difference between the two buses: 50¢! I took the upgrade! I got off at the first stop for El Tunco even though the driver pointed to the next stop. Other than getting hot walking with my backpack, it was a short stroll with a very interesting surprise in store. More on that later.
Tricky part...stay flexible!
Now, the tricky part: getting from El Tunco to Leon, Nicaragua. First, many people had a freaky reaction to me crossing the border into Nicaragua and told stories about camera being taken, etc. Others advised me to save money and take the chicken bus which would require many transfes and might take 25 hours?! When I knew what day I was going to leave, I contacted Gekko Trails as I had already communicated with them about going. They were FULL! And suggested I wait five or six days until they had an opening? Huh! I was so certain I was going with them, I didn’t know any other option?
Now, the process was research! Google, search, try many different angles, contact hostels in Leon to see what they suggest, and keep trying. I found another highly recommended shuttle service. Great! Their website wouldn’t work. After multiple attempts at purchasing a ticket, spinning back to the beginning, and contacting them via WhatsApp, I realized I was pushing and trying to hard. That never works well with travel. If it doesn’t begin with good energy, is seldom ends up with it!
I found a hostel in Leon and contacted them. Eventually, I received a message to contact the staff who suggested I needed to contact another person but that took several days. Not good!
Waiting for a response, I contacted Bigfoot Hotel in Leon, the originators of the volcano surfing experience. They had a shuttle, yes. I could book online. Yes! One attempt, booked, ready to go.
The journey would take 12-14 hours! I was ready at 8:45 for a 9:00 am pickup. Waiting in the office with my backpack, a man came in looked around and left. He didn’t notice me waiting. I walked out after him, it was my shuttle. We headed off at 9:25! On my way! A long day but organized all the way to my destination! We picked up a cople people on the way, changed shuttles around 2:00 in the afternoon and continued on our way. Border crossings leaving El Salvador and entering Honduras were smooth! The driver warned us about the border crossing into Nicaragua…that might take 1-2 hours! We took a short bathroom and dinner break at a Burger King which was “10 minutes” maximum! He wanted us moving! The crossing was a relatively easy 1 hour, slightly more maybe! And I was in Nicaragua for the first time!
We left the border and I saw that it was only 28 miles to Leon. However, it took is 1 hour and 45 minutes to cover that distance!
Now, for my trip to Esteli tomorrow, I have been told muptiple departure times for buses. I walked to the bus station, through the market, to the back of the bus station and asked multiple people. I have NO idea when it leaves. I did find a small van shared shuttle leaving at 9:30 but those to hold as many bodies and they can pack in.
Big Bus: no, only 6:00 am and 12:45, no big bus. Shuttle, only 9:30. Maybe every hour. Other buses, no, only these. My policy, ask a lot of people and ask loudly so others hear me. I have two men in different parts of the station who told me they are working tomorrow and will help me!
I continued walking through the station farther North, through more market area and came to a big street. I like exploring new areas and this was fun. I didn’t see any other foreigner! Only me and a lot of friendly people. I heard honking for a traffic jam behing me. I looked back and saw a big bus, with bold letters on top of the window, “Leon-Esteli”. So the big bus that didn’t exist just passed me!
Tomorrow, as is my policy when traveling, I will leave plenty early. Early departure gives me more options! Something will happen in some fashion and I will end up in Esteli tomorrow. It’s only 3 hours or so. What unfolds in reality, what surprises come up along the way, that is part of the adventure. And you can tell, I spend a lot of time looking, talking and researching to help me get where I want to go.
My next few stops are places few tourist ever go. So it’s local transport for a couple weeks!
Travel and plesant surprises.
Talking with Lester at Bigfoot Hostel yesterday and a woman from Manchester, UK who lives here now, they asked me where I was going. As I explained the places I plan to visit and the experience I’m looking for, the made an interesting comment. “No body does that!” So I’m off most of the beaten path! I will visit a reserve, some coffee farms, the tour a cigar making place and enjoy higher cooler climates. Eventually, I’ll wander to the next few villages intending to visit farms and nature reserves. I have no vision other than for the next three or four days. By then, the next phase of travel will be clear! Stay tuned and we’ll learn together.
SURPRISE…many! Remember me writing about the young ladies I met and talked with in Ataco a while back?
As I got off the bus in Tunco, the driver started leaving before I got off. He pointed ahead but, for some reason, I wanted to get off here! I did.
Walking down the street, it was really hot!! I took my time enjoying discovering this new place. When I neared the turn to my hotel, I paused for a moment in the street. Across from me was a cafe. It looked cool and inviting. I was parched. Rather than continue walking, I decided to go in and have a lemonade or Jamaica. As I walked in, two young women were sitting there having lunch. They looked up and a look of surprise, maybe shock, registered on their face. “No Way” they said! It was two of my young friends I had met in Ataco. They were a bit shocked trying to figure out how something like this can happen! We had another lovely connection. Now, they are in Oaxaca after being there for Dia de los Muertos yesterday. Road families. People continue crossing path with each other!
I love those surprises!!
Market wandering in Leon
I had given some thought to going on the free city tour this morning. But I have had very mixed experiences with those. Feeling uninspired, I was feeling inspired to walk to the bus area and explore a new area of the city away from the city center. I had such a lovely time! People were very friendly. They wanted their photo taken or asked me questions or engaged me in some way. Awesome!! Below are some photos from that experience.
And now to pack! I’m excited for the next adventure!! And happy to have you along!
Wow! So nice to travel along and explore and learn from the comfort of home. Of course, it’s not exhilarating to figure out how to get to Target from my home.
Your brain has to be flexible and as strong as the gentleman pushing what looks like a ton of onions on a cart! What an adventure, and I love sharing it with you.