Laos Reflections....
My final day here in Vientiane before flying to Bali tomorrow morning! What a month it has been! I’m a bit weary from some parts of my experience and looking forward to relaxing with my Bali family before heading home.
Years ago, before I went to Vietnam, I was warned that locals treated foreigners like walking ATMs. They thought everyone was loaded with money and they wanted some. I did NOT experience that there. The people were lovely especially if I was warm and friendly toward them. I’ve experienced pretty much the same thing here in Laos. Who I am influences how they are with me. But not all of Laos responds that way.
In parts of Laos, people respond suspiciously to a smile. In other parts, people happily return a smile and a greeting. Some areas thrive on tourist activities and that has become the focus of their work and their income. In those same areas, many Laotians live an agriculture-related lifestyle and see little positive benefit from tourism. I read that 70% of Laotians still live agricultural-based lifestyles. Work. Long days. Little income. Time with family. In Phonsavan, one man told me people he knows get up at 4:00 am, prepare food for the day, then walk 10 or 15 Kilometers to their field to work for the day. They return home at the end of the day and repeat the cycle tomorrow. Tourism hasn’t financially benefitted them. Those are the people who often warmly smile back in greeting.
Two very disparate types of lives happening here. In several towns I visited, prices were listed in US dollars. The dollar fluctuates less than the Laotian Kip. And the US dollar price was higher than places I’d visited before. If the menu was in dollars, it was more expensive than local cafe’s.
I have been able to find several places where a portion of the income goes toward a local cause. Some provide support for schools, others disadvantaged children, one supported women and taught them to run a business, and I spotted one blind massage place. I love supporting those kind of businesses.
Local connection and good energy!
I’ve been shopping for a few things the past week. I hadn’t bought anything because, honestly, I didn’t connect or like the people I talked to. I don’t buy anything unless I like the energy of the people helping me. Things I buy usually have a story with them. People, places, interactions, smiles, jokes, and so forth.
Yesterday, I hit the jackpot! One silk shop full of women’s clothes had a few things I was interested in but I didn’t have enough money with me. I asked if there was a discount if I bought four. An older woman smiled and offered a discount of about $1. I didn’t need the discount. However, it’s respectful to bargain a little bit. She hugged me with her smile and thanked me for coming in. When I returned, another smile and thank you as I left with my things! Smiles and connection!
Nearer my hotel, I found some silk scarves but they were double the price. The store kept calling me so I went back in. Standing there holding a scarf in my left hand, with two others I was going to take folded in front of me, I was nearly pushed away by a foreign woman in a hurry! She was telling the owner that she wanted “that” one pointing to the one in my hand! Yes, it was still in my hand as I was trying to take it off the display. I told her I was interested in it as well. Part of me prepared for a contest. It was a special and very unique brilliance coming off his one!
She smiled and said, “ I live here, I can come back. Most people wouldn’t notice the light coming off that.” The older woman helping her was the owner. As she bundled up my purchases, we had a lovely conversation about life, healing, how Laos is changing and the importance of connecting with people.
I told her I was going to Bali to see friends and healers. She immediately responded to cultures knowing about energy and healing! She was commenting about healers knowing to work with energy and the physical body, most born into that ability, when visa rejected my charge. Hmmm…interesting! I asked the young woman to please run it again. But first, I took the card, blew on it, rubbed and blessed it, then handed it back. It went right through. The older woman smiled and commented on using the energy! I had one final question before leaving, “can I have a hug”? Yes! She was a great hugger! What a lovely connection!
Things that are different and changing daily!
Lots of changes since I was last here. As i was walking yesterday, I paused to let a man pass. He stopped to talk. He works with the bank and sounded like a walking marketing program espousing all the wonderful things about Laos. “You should move here to live!” he said. He didn’t realize that the things changing are not good things for me and a reason I may not come back! His “progress” is not mine!
The woman in the shop and I talked about Laos in 2015. She sighed deeply and placed a hand over her heart saying “it breaks my heart to see the changes to my country”! That sentiment is not unusual. It reminds me of Western countries, with a lot of wealth, but with little fulfillment or joy but lots of stuff. That direction in life never has appealed to me!
So amidst the changes, people are still quite nice! I did get spoiled in Sumatra because they intentionally reached out and welcomed the connection. Here, it is a bit more effort, they are guarded more. And I’ll get spoiled again in Bali…soon! Hello Bali! I’ll be seeing you real soon!
And I’m reminded of something I read a few decades ago: “Grow Where You Are Planted”. To me, it means make the most of where you are and do your best!
Phonsavan and the "Plain of Jars"
Since being here in 2015, I wanted to see Phonsavan and the Plain of Jars. Some of them date back to 500 years BC. There are a lot of legends about where they came from and how they were made. In the early 1930s, geologist and amateur archaeologist Madeleine Colani discovered evidence of cremation. They also found a quarry where partially formed jars still sit on the mountainside, 10 kilometers from the plain.
So much for the local legend of the jars being made from sugar, buffalo hide, lime, and sand. Varying in size, some were larger than I am! Others were very small. Openings were round, rectangular, or oval. The finish varied with some having an extra bevel or ornamentation. There is some general agreement on what they were used for but I have a feeling there is a lot to be discovered about them yet.
It was an amazing experience walking among them. In one place, one particular jar had a particularly strong essence about it. Sometimes in a forest, I come across a large old tree that feels like the Grandfather tree. This felt like the Grandfather or elder jar. We visited three sites. There are over 100!
When I was here in 2015, the area had not been cleared of UXO’s, unexploded ordinance. So not only was it very difficult to reach by bus, it required an extreme amount of care walking around following footsteps on specific paths. Now, it’s considered cleared so I felt free to wander around!
Extra days in Phonsavan
Phonsavan, the village, where I chose to spend an extra day. Some recommendations suggested flying in, seeing the Plain of Jars and flying out the next day. I spent two full days there staying in Sipanya, a great hotel. Nice facilities and location, extremely helpful staff, quiet and close walking distance to the village. I loved walking around the backstreets whether to visit the museum or simply exploring neighborhoods away from the main highway That’s where I found groups of kids playing a rubber band game on Sunday. Lots of spectators while three boys completed.
It looked like this: a white plastic sipping straw laying vertically across a. path with a pile of rubber bands piled on one end. The three boys walked out 3-4 meters away. They took aim with rubber bands that had been intertwined to make one large band. Then they fired at the straw. If they hit the straw and rubber bands went flying, everyone cheered. I don’t know if they kept score or how the game came out. However, seeing a dozen kids playing together on a Sunday morning without a mobile phone in sight was refreshing!
My flight was interesting. It is a short 15-minute drive to the airport. I was dropped off outside the domestic departure door. Inside were about four counters. Mine wasn’t open. I walked through to the International section to see what it looked like when I depart for Bali. Small but functional.
Back to the domestic side, I checked in, had no baggage to check, and headed through security. I was surprised to see there was a security entrance for the domestic flight. Mr, Souk told me that the area of Phonsavan is cautious about who comes to visit. Thus, the increased security. I’m sure there is more to that story. It was a heavily bombed area during the “secret war” and lots of rumors because of the history and the proximity to Vietnam.
I took a couple of photos of the tiny cute airport! We walked down the stairs in the heat of the afternoon, across a gravel path, to an open area for “baggage claim” and into the airport. A man came up to me with a photo of my flight ticket asking if that was me!? Mr. Souk was coming by to pick me up soon, please could I wait? And that began my adventure there.
Mr. Souk was a great guide! Very knowledgeable, enthusiastic, loves learning, and with a great sense of humor. He was there as I got back into a van to leave to tell me goodbye and to thank me for staying with the hotel and using him for a guide.
The hotel was located outside of town but only a five-minute walk. Aside from the obligatory “rooster alarms” for early morning, it was very quiet! The staff was great, friendly, and helpful. The room was clean, comfortable and affordable. I was really pleased that i chose to stay there at Hotel Sipayan!
Final Days In Vientiane
Transformation! From open-air area to packed night market. The transformation happens every day!
It’s been really hot here but today, it is cooler with a breeze. Phonsavan on the other hand required an extra long-sleeve layer of warmth. It was such a nice break from the heat!
Yesterday was laundry day and exploring! I dropped off my laundry early so it would be ready for today. The place was highly recommended and a bit more expensive. For 2 kilos of laundry, it costs me 60,000 kip or roughly $3. Sometimes I’ve gotten my laundry back and it was simply jammed into a bag. This time, I chose a place recommended and it was great. When I walked in to pick it up, the man walked to the shelf remembering what was mine. Everything was neatly folded and inside a sealed plastic bag! My next laundry may be at home which will be a bit weird!
In the heat, I have walked to temples and wats and museums and markets. Today is my relaxing packing day before travel. I’ve enjoyed Vientiane a lot! Last time, it felt hot, dusty, depressed and unfriendly. Now, it’s quite different. I’m enjoying the French presence in quality bakeries and good coffee!
Below are some images of my wanderings since being here. It feels weird that soon, I’ll be arriving in Bali! I’m looking forward to seeing my Bali friends and family. Yes, it is amazing that I’ve been traveling already for two months!?!?
From Vientiane…
The boomerang effect
leaving tomorrow, I have extra money. It’s either change it at the airport or use it! I went back to the shop where I as yesterday to support their work helping women. The woman I met yesterday was just leaving. She thanked me for connecting and was happy to meet me. We shared a hug. My tour guide in Phonsavan thanked me for being a friendly nice person. The manager of a place I stayed wrote to tell me his staff really was happy working with me. He thanked me for being a kind person.
Boomerang effect!
As I reflect back over my two months of travel, that sort of thing has happened often! And it reminds me once again: WHAT YOU PUT OUT COMES BACK TO YOU,
Be a kind person. Care! Enjoy the journey!
Bali, I'll be seeing you real soon!
I’m looking forward to seeing friends, my Bali family, and relaxing in the loving warmth of Bali!
Ciao!