Quick trip to experience some of El Salvador
I left Antigua three days ago. The trip here was pretty comfortable. The shuttle was about 20 minutes late and we had to wait for a few people to be ready but soon, we were on our way. After bring the only tourist on local buses, it was a bit strange being on a shuttle full of foreigners.
It’s interesting to me that people say hello, they open their phones and never have contact. It seems unusual to me that people go to a different country and are taking a comfortable van through the countryside but don’t see much of it for their noses being in their phones!
Passing immigration out of Guatemala was a breeze. It took a while to get through El Salvador immigration. Maybe an hour! They take all passports from people on the van after asking each person questions. The agent disappears into a building. Some time later, a long time later, he apparently handed passports to our driver who gave them to us and we were on our way.
The shuttle cost $45 for the six hour journey!
This shuttle made few stops which was nice. He made strategic bathroom stops but no 45 minute relaxing lunch stops like some have done. At one point, we pulled into a gas station and he pointed to the store with bathrooms. After everyone came out, he moved the van to the shade on the other side of the parking lot, turned it off, and began removing backpacks from the top. Strange!?
We learned that the group separates here with the people going to the coast getting on a different shuttle and the rest of us heading up in to the moutains.
I was dropped off in Juayua, the only person getting off here. YAY!!! This is not a tourist town. My hostel is empty except for me. The hosts are great! My $15 nightly fee includes a typical breakfast. I’m right across the street from a great Pupusa place. And walking to the center of town takes about 6 minutes. Rarely have I seen any tourist! Perfect!!
Cost and experience here
It is a major contrast to being in Panajachel, San Pedro, San Juan or Antigua. Here, people are living their normal local life. It’s not centered around or catered to tourist. I’ve only met a few people who speak English. They wanted to practice it with me because no one speaks it here. My kind of town!
I have so enjoying ambling along the quiet streets, walking up the hill to the neigborhood behind the town to the West, and interacting with people. Everyone is very friendly and quick to say hello and flash a smile. This is the experience I wanted.
Cost of travel?
I was shocked at how much it costs to travel in Guatemala now. It has always been a very inexpensive experience. This time, I can easily spend $30 a day there and buy nothing special. Breakfast with a coffee…$12-$14. Salad: $12.
What is unusual is not finding local street food carts. I’ve always been able to locate those and eat very delicious and inexpensive local food with the locals. I wondered if El Salvador would be different?
Looking for lodging here, I saw a blog from about 18 months ago recommending a special hostel that was $15 to $20 a night. Now, it is $50 a night! YIKES!
My first evening I saw a restaurant three floors tall! I asked if I could go to the top and the owner escorted me up there. The view was awesome! I ordered a lemonade! It was very good. And, it cost $3.60 which is more than a beer.
Later I wandered to a pupusa place the hosts here recommended. That is where the photos above were taken. The ladies were extremely friendly. I was the only tourist in sight. And I stood close watching them make the pupusas so I could learn something. I had two huge pupusas, the largest I’ve every had. One was with chicken, the other with beans and cheese.
Huge by my standards and I was full. Cost for dinner: $2.50.
Yesterday during a day trip to visit Ataco Conception, I took the local bus. The 40 minute drive through coffee country was lovely and cost $2. I walked around and decided to treat myself to a special lunch. I found this amazing place with coffee shop, restaurant and local clothing and items. It had an amazing outdoor courtyard.
The temperature dropped noticeable when I walked out there! I watched a man weaving, his movements so smooth and fast. I sat, ordered a panini which was great, a jamaica drink and desert. All total: $9.
What I’m happy to learn is that I can eat small proportion meals, not eat too much, and have options for how much or how little I want to splurge! In Guatemala, it was much more challenging to find options!
Yes, I have found good coffee!
Lots of good coffee here! I’m picking places by the energy and friendliness of people working there! Bourbon coffee has a shelf on the wall above and behind the coffee area. It is lined with trophy’s and cups from various parts of the world. They know their coffee! And are really nice people!
My coffee cost $2, less then the tourist spot lemonade. Refreshing, lovely environment and awesome people. Great combination!
The highway coming up here and then going to Ataco is lined with coffee farms. I had no idea there were that many here! And they are very pround of their coffee!
Shifting plans...
I met a man yesterday from here who has lived in San Francisco and is happy to be able to return to visit. He is in real estate and has an online business utilizing AI in some way. Enthusiastically, he told me the places I HAD to visit while I’m in El Salvador. HAVE TO…doesn’t work well for me. I’m here to satisfy what feels right to me, not what everyone around me recommends. That caused me to look at the calendar and review my priorities.
And my travel plans have changed accordingly!
My first priority it so spend time exploring natural places in Nicaragua. Getting there takes a while. Getting around there can be challenging. Since I haven’t found clear information on how to get to some of the places I want, I’ll park myself in near by towns and talk to people. Then proceed accordingly!
Now, I’m going to the capital city, San Salvador, in the morning. I’ll spend two days there exploring and walking around. Then, I’m headed to a place I intended to avoid but have since read some nice reviews of it. And that is the beach at El Tunco. It’s known as a surfing area and a spot full of international tourist. However, I learned that it is a long beach stretching through different communities. And, I learned I can connect with an overland shuttle there that will drive me through El Salvador, through part of Honduras, and to Leon Nicaragua.
Leon sounda like a special place. And it is known for being pretty hot! As a result of the shuttle going there, I’m reversing plans. I’ll visit Leon first, then head up to higher and cooler country to see about getting into the large natural reserve near there. Perfect!
I have found a coffee farm outside Metagalpa with rooms where I can stay. I also found a cloud forest area outside Granada that will pick me up from a point along the bus route and take me to their nature area. And I have a lodge down the Rio San Juan River nearl Indio Maize reserve where I’ll stay a couple nights!
At least, right now, that is what my future travel plans look like! Who knows what will actually happen!
A few more photos from here
It has been a very pleasant experience staying here! People seem to be entertained by me.
Today, I entertained a group of men while waiting an hour for a hair cut. They kept glancing at me. All the while, the barber was laughing, joking with them, singing to songs on his music system and such.
The ladies at the pupusa place tonight were curious and asking questions about me, where I’m from, have I ever had a pupusa before. They seem a bit stunned when I told them I tried making them before but they didn’t turn out well. That’s why I watch so closely to see the texture of the Masa and the way they roll the cheese and the filling together. And now, I’m about to leave this peace and quiet and head to the capital. Stay tuned!
Sound like you are having a great time so far! We will cross the border to El Salvador soon as well. If you have any recommendations on accommodations, locations, to dos or even food spots we would love to hear them!! Safe travel!
Hello! I sent you a lengthy email response some time ago. I hope it got through to you. I’m in Nicaragua now. Heading to more remote places for nature! Hope your travels are going great!