Colombia Travel Adventure: of waiting, adapting and Experiencing a bit of magic!
It’s quite nice being here. Unlike the coast, everything is no longer damp and smelly! The air is fresh and crisp. Temperatures are cool. There is little humidity. They did my laundry this morning so I have clean dry clothes. And the people here are awesome! Now, about the patient day reaching this place!
How things Unfold for me, "planning"
I had a “bi-polar” travel event a few days ago. Once I knew my schedule back to Medellin, I started looking for travel options from there. Two stood out! The first involved going to a new place, Salamina which is directly South of Medellin. According to online information, it takes either 4 1/2 hours or 14 hours by bus! Quite a range?! Early morning buses are direct and shorter time. Afternoon buses involve multiple stops.
My second option was to go back to Jerico! I loved Jerico and plan to go back. My intent was to save it for the end of my trip. Some place familiar but with new experiences. It’s easy to get there from Medellin.
However, I kept coming back to visiting Salamina.
In the process, I started searching for a route from there to Jardin. Nothing direct showed up. Lots of suggestions some of which took 12 hours to complete! I kept digging!
In the process, I contacted two places I was interested in staying when in Salamanca. The first had no information on buses but recommended a transportation company. They wanted $250 US for a 2 1/2 hour journey. That’s more than I spent in Bahia Solano including the whale trip in six days.
The second place was very helpful! Unfortunately, they are full the days I’m there! Someone wrote that there is a bus at 6:00 am for a place named La Pintada. It arrives there at 9:00 am and another bus picks me up at 10:00 am for Jardin. Simple!
In the process, one person wrote in a Facebook forum on travel in Colombia that Aguadas is a small village in the coffee country. They said something to the effect, “it’s a nice place so spend a little time and have a coffee”. I heard in, in similar manner, about other more remote places here in coffee country. One quality they all have in common: they are unknown to most tourist.
When people living here asked me where I was going next and I mentioned Aguadas, several did not know where it was. Perfect.
It’s in the manner of exploring, having some idea of possibilities in mind, and jumping in to explore that discoveries are made. I’ll get back to that. First, a story about my “delay day”!
Long Winding Twisting Road To Get Here!
Leaving Humpback Turtle Hostel yesterday seemed like it would be smooth! Ha!!
When I prepared to leave the hostel, I had no firm plans other than to get on my plane to Medellin. Once I arrived, I would walk to the “terminal de Sur” bus station and see what options there were for me. Depending on what time I got in, I’d be about to find one route or another. I hoped to get to Salamina but realistically, after asking before, that was not likely. My backup plan was either Jerico or Aguadas?
Everything was arranged! Early breakfast at 8:00, taxi to airport at 9:00, flight at 12:00 and then figure it out! I also offered to deliver a fairly expensive wireless microphone two ladies left.
No worries!
The night before I left, it was really hot and uncomfortable. That was compounded by the noisy, rattling and annoying fan turned on in the hostel by one person. It had a special frequency that penetrates earplugs! I woke early, before 6:00 am. For some reason, only then did I think about the hammocks on the upper floor of the next building. I know they are cooler! I took my pillow and went over. It was much cooler! I got about 90 minutes of deep sleep! Then I sat and listened to and felt the energy of the ocean for one last time.
I went to breakfast at 8:00…..and waited 30 minutes to be served. A new lady was cooking and had a different rhythm. No worries, I had plenty of time but would be a bit rushed packing and showering.
I was ready at 9:20 for my taxi at 9:30. It arrived at 9:55. Slow rasta style, “no worries man” style. I would be later than the airline requested arriving at the airport. My check in was to happen before 10:30 and boarding scheduled for 11:15. However, there was no plane. Wait…wait some more….prepare to board at 12:30. Finally, a plane arrived at 1:30. I felt at risk of missing the option for the 3:00 bus!?!?
Bahia Solano Airport scenes
We landed at 2:30! I got my pack, asked directions, walked through the airport to the bus station to buy a bus ticket at 2:50. They had a seat! And my friend Oscar the police man saw me and said hello! He wanted to make sure everything was OK.
The bus station is new to me. I didn’t know where to go, how long it would take, if there was security, and where my bus would depart from. The only glitch was the ladies picking up the microphone. They weren’t there and wrote they were on their way.
That seemed very unreasonable. I found their microphone, contacted them to see if it was theirs, arranged to carry it to Medellin, and expected them to be there waiting for me being on a tight schedule! Not the case!
I wrote that I couldn’t wait and headed to the bus. Moments before we were leaving, the lady from the ticket window got on the bus and approached me. One of the women had asked her so she came to the bus to pick up the microphone. At least I was rid of it and they would be able to use it again. It is a very nice microphone!
Whew! I had it made!! A lot of waiting and adjusting and being flexible. I was on the bus heading to Aguadas which was 3 1/2 hours from Medellin. Unfortunately, that was not the case today.
There was a LOT of traffic. It was very slow going. Eventually, we came up on several different accidents, a stalled bus, and other similar events that kept us going stop and go (mostly stop). It was close to 2 1/2 hours before we reached anything resembling continuous movement! I settle in and enjoyed seeing the countryside! We stopped after 4 hours for a 5 minute break. Then, a few minutes before 9:00, the bus arrived in Aguadas! That was roughly 6 hours after we left. Because of the flow of the day, I hadn’t eaten since breakfast and didn’t have time to buy water hurrying through the bus station.
At the central plaza, the bus stopped to let a man get off, I got off with him. That was a good plan, I was only one block from my hotel!
Unfortunately, that was not the case today.
What a great reception! The woman there had helped me greatly through WhatsApp. She was off but informed him I was coming. Alejandro and Dani asked a lot of questions at the hotel! Very nice connecting. A great welcoming committee, multiple option of rooms to choose from and time to shower and get a bite to eat.
I bought an Arepa in the plaza which I took to a bench to eat. Moments later, a young man on a bicycle stopped and asked me a question. We talked, he asked more questions then excused himself. He returned in a few minutes with four of his friends. Young Chico’s around 13…and they were so curious about me, USA, is Las Vegas nice, what is your favorite place to travel, etc. They will be looking for me this evening!
After a long hectic day of travel, it was such a nice way to end the evening. Even the lady and her daughter at the Arepa stand were curious and warm!
What fun it was talking with these curious young boys. So interesting! And hanging out together on Friday night with their bicycles. Cool experience!
Coffee and Sombrero's
This morning at breakfast, I was thinking about what to do here today? After my long day traveling yesterday, I decided to spend one more night here and have a relaxing day. I asked if there were coffee farms near? Paulo got excited and began telling me about options. Any of them would have been great except for the travel. And, I don’t want to do much hilly walking on sore knees.
I’m staying at Hotel Sueño Dorada in Aguadas. The means Golden Dreams Hotel. They have been extremely helpful even before I came here. Paulo is the manager. Her son Alejandro works here. Here husband Alex helps as well.
Being clear with her for my intentions, she mentioned a place near where they toast coffee. I didn’t understand fully. She made a phone call. I went back to my breakfast! A few minutes later, Alex walked over and introduced himself. He is Paulo’s husband and offered to take me to this place only 4 blocks away!
I was so surprised! It was the coffee grower’s cooperative. Farmers from all over bring their beans here and wait. Bags are sampled, the beans cleaned, examined and a price established for the crop. A dozen farmers sat on bags waiting for their turn. They were curious and friendly and looked at me. Suddenly, one ornery and friendly man shouted in Spanish “Yes, we have a tourist visiting us today!” Everyone smiled and laughed.
I got to witness the entire process, room by room, including where they roast small batches and including an area where the taste coffee. Everyone was so warm and friendly. As many coffee experiences as I’ve had, this one was truly unique and special! Alex was a great guide!
On the way out, he asked if I wanted to go to the Sombrero museum. I didn’t. We walked about 60 meters where I saw a sign for an “escuela”, a school. I glanced through a window and saw an old record player sitting there. We entered to peek around!
A man came out of the back. I told him my grandparents had a record player like that. He was so friendly and enthusiastic. They had a room with the Virgin and an altar. She is wearing a sombrero. Actually, a couple. This is a sombrero school! I learned about every step in the process as he took me around and explained how the hats are made. I saw the raw grass, the dried grass, how the fibers are separated, the different quality of weavings, and then visited students learning the process. And, of course, his wife brought coffee to share with us!
These are random moments, encounters and opportunities, the regularly show up on my trips! And they are the highlights I really remember. I write regularly about the importance of feeling more and thinking less when traveling and planning travel. When there is flexibility in travel, an ability to be fully in the moment, to listen, these kind of things pop up! I feel so blessed!
And next….???
In the course of exploring options, other names popped up! I now know there are villages by the names of Temesis, Carmanta and Fredonia not far from Jardin. They sound like this spot here, quiet colorful villages interesting to visit without many tourist. One farm near Fredonia has cabins overlooking the mountain and valley below.
Tomorrow, I go to Salamina. That part looks pretty easy! The bus station is just around the corner. I asked earlier and buses go every hour not he half hour. It’s 2 hours or less. Once there, I have two nights. I’ll explore the area and see if there are other options for getting to Jardin. Eventually, I’ll wind up in Jardin. From there, I’ll see what options fit the time I have left!
It’s been a really great trip! More to come!!
Views around Aguadas
I’m attempting to insert a custom google map with no success. It shows the entire planet which is not that helpful. Below is a screenshot that will give you a general idea of where I am going to be.
Sleeping on it, I thought of a new solution! It took a while until I realized this wasn’t possible through my iPhone. Below is the map I made yesterday! I am in Aguadas. As I write this, I’m about to pack and go to Salamina. After that…I’ll make up plans as I travel! Hope this is helpful to you!