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Perfect Travel Adventure! Whales, beach and hammocks!
Complicated evolved into perfection! With a lot of patience mixed in!! Go with the flow, things work out! The schedules for getting here were complicated. And unreliable, Published list of available tours may or may not be available And it is worth it!
I flew to Medellin from Denver. Simple! Choose a route, confirm, click and buy a ticket. Then, there is the airport in Medellin! Uber doesn’t work there. They have regulated taxi’s with a fixed price of $130,000 to where I was going. I followed directions I’d read and …. No taxi! Long line of taxi’s outside. Inside, a lot of individuals telling me they were a “taxi” but I was advised multiple times not to use them. The regulated taxi’s are safe and you know what you are paying.
I walked out the door, got on a Combus (after asking) and it left immediately. Normally they leave only when full. Cost was $20,000 pesos. Current exchange rate of 3,072 Colombia Pesos to $1 makes that about $6.50. Theoretically! The airport ATM’s have high charge for use and a 9.5% markup. Still, it’s convenient getting the money there and now trying to change US dollars.
The next day, I went to the bus station to see about a bus. Window to window, I got different answers, none helped me with my afternoon schedule. I found 2 possibilities. That means tomorrow when I land and walk the 10 minutes to the bus station, I will go where I can get a ticket for travel! Hopefully, it’ll be Aguadas.
Airport experience!
I woke early so left early. I was informed to check in by 8:30. I was in line at 8:00…behind a noisy group of about 20. One person was checking them in. She tried to help me but couldn’t find me on the passenger list. She asked me to come back in 20 minutes.
After breakfast and coffee, I was back and waited another 45 minutes. They found my name and checked me in. My luggage was too heavy so I paid for the additional 2 kg over weight. That cost me $15,000 COP, roughly $5 US.
A choppy ride through storms, we landed! Taxi’s from the airport were listed at $20,000 COP. But for one person, they were $60,000. Then, there was a $60,000 fee for entering the area.
With no ATM in the area and cash only transactions, I fortunately picked up extra money!
A really nice young man, Mario, drove me and gave me tips along the way. I had to walk the last stretch down the beach to the Humpback Turtle Hostel. It’s remote, very natural, traditional that roof buildings and great food.
I’m in a dorm, one with no bunk beds. Single beds for each person. There is only one other person there with me so it’s quite private and friendly.
I sleep to the waves, wake with the birds, walk the beach at sunrise and sunset and feel like I have been here for much longer than a few days. People are extremely helpful and courteous!
The village is not much! For those cooking here at the hostel, the options are slim but for a few meals, it’s fine. The food here at the hostel is great! I have fresh tuna for lunch today cooked in typical Pacific coast flavors! What a treat!
I’m wrapping up my day writing. I’ve arranged a taxi for 9:30 in the morning to the airport for my noon flight. If it rains heavy, flights may be delayed. That’s a common occurrence here.
In general, bring a lot of patience and flexibility when you visit this are. Have more time than you think, relax, go with the flow and have an amazing experience!
Whale Watching! Making arrangements here!
I had written, expressed my desires and received a published list of options available. I was clear that I wanted a whale trip…only! Not attached to other peripheral stops that take the entire day. When I arrived, they had no trips like that! They had confirmed they would. So what happens? Things happen!
My first morning, they had a trip leaving at 8:00 am and returning about 4:00 pm. I didn’t want to do that. Maybe a trip tomorrow only for whales. There really two managers here. One in the evening and the other in the morning! I woke early and talked with the morning manager, Patricia, in Spanish. She clarified with me, “solamente ballena’s”?! Only whales. I told her yes. She would make some calls and check around!
A couple hours later, I received a WhatsApp note from them. Cool Idea! When guests check in, they are connected to a group chat for current events, menu’s and so forth. I received a message:
WHALE WATCHING ADVENTURE! 🐋Today, we’re heading out on an epic whale-watching adventure! Your guide will pick you up at the hostel at 2:40 PM.
Get ready for an unforgettable afternoon on the Pacific Ocean, wild whales, salty air, and pure adventure! 150,000 COP per person.Want to join us? Let us know! 🌊
I asked Patricia and yes, that was for me. Be ready at 1:30 for pickup. Then, at 1:00, she found me and told me my driver was here. Fortunately, I was ready. He dropped me and went to get the boat. I waited. Then, we took off South, away from the whale watching area along the coast?? The boat stopped three times. He drained excess oil. After the third time, he replaced the fuel filter. We were not heading whale watching bot to pick up some passengers who needed transport back to El Valle. We dropped them off. I had been in the boat just under 2 hours. We then headed out seeing whales…for about 25 minutes. NOTHING! Choppy water. He asked me if I could come back at 6:00 am? Sure! But not confidently. He told me they would pick me up at 5:15, changed his mind, told me I had to walk which is about 30 minutes.
I explained to Patricia what a poor experience it was! And asked her what time I should leave to walk there. She found me a couple hours later. A driver would pick me up at 5:40 am. I was ready.
At 5:55, the driver showed up. He dropped me and I walked to the boat and was designated a seat. Good thing. 10 other people joined us this morning. It was a full boat.
This time, we headed out trolling slowly in the bay parallel to the shore. He reminded people that this required patience. After about 20 minutes, they spotted a spout ahead of us. Full throttle, we raced toward it. That was the beginning! We were out for three hours and had an amazing experience. We didn’t see any jumpers coming out of the water. However, some came up and spouted a mere 30 meters from the boat! It was such an awesome experience!
Photos below of that experience!
I walked around the village a couple times! The Rosa de Mar restaurant was recommended to me by several people so I went there for a late lunch my first full day here. Very strange and expensive experience. I was moved to different tables three times. Locals who were eating were rushed out as a tour group of over 20 people came in. I was sat with six other people, Colombian friends traveling together. I waited and waited until my order was taken. They had already reorganized tables into long groupings after hustling locals out to do so. The tourist moved in a pack, not looking at anyone outside their group or saying hello. It felt as if the restaurant had to cater to their “royalty”. Strange. My meal arrived, a whole local fish with slaw. It was $30 US. So much for being famous and recommended. The climate was not one I would return to.
I did find a bakery, a panaderia! I know that might surprise some of you! After exploring the village, I had a slow walk back to the hostel.
And I followed up that day with my favorite activity: hammock time. There are hammocks hanging all around. I found some on an upper level where laundry hangs to dry. I’ve spent hours up there reading, relaxing, watching sunset, listening to morning birds and enjoying my coffee! I’m going to miss that when I leave here tomorrow. Tropical weather will be replaced with dryer and cooler climate as I go up to just under 2,000 meters. That will feel good for a change. Yesterday, it was 89° with a heat index of 104°, only 98° in the shade.
No, it is definitely not a dry heat!!
Views around the village and here.
Below are a couple videos I made when I arrived. The days have passed quickly. I feel like I’ve been traveling for a month, not a week! So pleasant! Now, off to more traveling and exploring!
I’m hoping to head to Aguadas tomorrow. From here, I plan to visit small villages, not touristy, and experience local culture. I’ll go slow, travel by bus, shiva, jeep and whatever is available. I’m curious to see what discoveries pop up over the next couple weeks!
Ciao!
What a great experience! The whale photos especially are beautiful.
Love it all.