I've arrived in Tortuguero
Massage, night walks, great shrimp, hiking early morning, good coffee, new freinds, bus rides and other transport.
I’m now in Tortuguero!
Time is flying by! I have a few days here before going back to San Jose and my flight back to Colorado. A few more adventures are in store first!
Today was a rest day. That is, after I went out walking at 6:00 am to see the turtle track and camoflage next they made last night! By the time I finished, the heat was really building. Muggy and humid and hot! And, lovely!
I changed rooms today from the dormitory (which I had to myself) to a private room with AC. I stopped for a coffee and a smoothie on the way back. A new lady was helping this morning, Eva. I told her I was moving today and asked her how we would do that? She went inside, grabbed a key and told me it was ready. My move was quick. Not only was it ready, the AC was on and keeping the room at a pleasant temperature. Mostly, it kept the humidity down so my room wasn’t so muggy. After the rainy morning when I arrived, things in my pack were still pretty damp! The AC dried everything out today!
Black out? Yes! The sim card I purchased for here from Saily did NOT work at all here! I’ve barely used it. And, after the rain storm, the island has generally been without WiFi. Generally because, occasionally last evening, it came back on but was so feeble I could not do anytyhing on line.
Today, I needed to buy a ticket online for the National Park. I’m going on a canoe trip at 6:00 am and have to have a ticket. There is no other way to get it. I went to the guide who booked my next two trips, gave him money and my personal information. It took several hours but eventually, he sent me the tickets for tomorrow and Monday through WhatsApp.
Recent Travel Insights....
My trip to Cano Negra was OK but not great. It felt like the primary objective, other than pointing out an animal here and there was to stay on schedule! I had two similar experiences ack to back!
My shuttle picked me up at 6:50 am. The driver took my backpack, put a sticker on it and handed me the other piece. Just like the airlines. However, everyone in the van was going to the same place except me. Weird!? Then, he punched in a program on his phone and we had an official travel announcement. Just like the airlines. And just like the airlines, we could barely hear anything!
I’ve had a couple experiences where it feels like guides and drivers have done this experience SOOO many times, they speak like someone pushed the “play” button. Blah, blah, blah…blah. No connection. Forced joked here and there. Not an authentic experience!
When we arrived at Cano Negra, the guide sounded a bit like that. “Here’s the scheudle”!
I asked him if things were OK left in the van. He said yes. We went inside for coffee and fruit and a look around. While the guide was inside speaking with staff, I was outside watching a family of howler monkeys in a tree right beside the restaurant. The tree behind the van had six vultures resting on the branches. I pointed those out to several other passengers. The guide was inside talking. Apparently paying attention and noticing what was going on right there was not part of the agenda.
He was knowledgable, that is for sure. But again, the schedule interrupted. We got to a point on the river where it was “time” to head back for lunch. We saw more animals and birds, passes a spot where howler monkeys were howling at each other from opposite sides of the river, but didn’t stop. Not on the schedule.
I have learned from that experience!!!! When I explained to Marco what I wanted in a night walk, his eyes lit up! Not crowded. Remote. Good animal and bird and night time creatures to observe. And he told me that Pablo is the best!
He was!!! It was! His father and grandfather live there. They started it. He’s the third generation taking care of Sarapiqui Spirit. He explained as we walked how the habitat was designed for different purposed. We saw a lot, learned a lot, enjoyed a lot and I felt blessed to have that experience.
Now, here in Tortuguero, I’m looking for the same thing. Everyone…literally lodges, hostels, hotels…offer similar programs. I went shopping! The guide for the turtle walk last night, Israel, was excellent and we had a group of 6 people.
I read a review recommending one guide at an agency that is only a few meters from my hostel. I have walked by a dozen or more signs and the guide office advertising canoe trips. I saw the office for Carretta Tours where guides were recommended.
The desk person is gone. The man sitting behind the desk was Verny. Exactly what I wanted! He recommended to experiences I want to have. One experience, the night tour of the canals, no one does. Verny helped me schedule a canoe tour for 6:00 am tomorrow and a boat tour at 9:00 am Monday. He is also the man who bought tickect to the National Park today when I could not connect with anything.
And, as I explained what I like experiencing, he started offereing suggestoins. He has been guiding for 27 years. He has guided in different parts of Costa Rica and knows guides and experiences in different parts of the country. He gave me his WhatsApp number and offered to help me with any advice when I come back to Costa Rica.
Score one for clarity! Being clear, knowing what my priority is and suddenly, I’m finding that everywhere! Awesome!
Photos from La Fortuna and Sarapiqui
Curious? Check out Hotel el Bambu! Click on the link.
Great location. Helpful and friendly staff! Interesting small town feel that is growing!
Shocking serendipidity moment!
I wrote to Pablo sending photos of the owl and the manakin. He confirmed what they were and, suggested it was a very fortunate and mysterious experience. It’s rare to see the Manakin dance! I caught but a glimpse before it flew up to a safe roost. I will always remember the sounds it made including the loud clicking it makes with its wings! See the video below and you will know what I mean! That is not a sound I have ever heard in a forest before!!!
Interesting travel day!
The bus station was but a short walk from my hotel. I stopped by and asked about a schedule. I bought a ticket for the 8:40 bus. After realizing just how hot it would get, I went the station at 6:30 to see if I could get on an earlier bus? The woman there told me the ticket was good for any bus! I loaded up and off we went….or off we crept!
This is a local bus and the primary transportation for most local people who do not have cars. It stopped often to pick people up or let people off. I love that experience! It’s real connection with the local culture.
We arrived in Guapiles, I was pointed through the station to buy a ticket. I asked a bus drive where the ticked office was. He was the driver of the bus to Cararia and pionted “here”. I paid him and had a seat and we were off!
Smooth! Or at lease, so far it was. Once I arrived in Cararia, I was directed to the ticket office for La Pavona where the boats leave for Tortuguero. It was around 8:45 am. The next bus didn’t leave until 11:30?!?!?!? NO WHERE did I read that in my research. I did read that the buses left often either from or just outside the station. Now, there are only three buses a day! It was still raining lightly.
I walked out to the street with my pack. A few steps to cross the street and a man waved at me saying “La Pavona” as he was talking to another woman? Leery, because of being overcharged and because the woman at the ticket office said the only other option was a very expensive taxi, I asked him where he was going? It was a shared taxi. When it fills with four people, he leaves. Cost: $5.00 a person, leaving now, taking only 30 minute rather than the hour the bus takes and much more comfortable! Yay! That worked great.
Once we arrived, it was very hectic! The rain was coming down pretty hard. We drove directly to the water and he shouted to boats that we had four people. I told him I had a ticket! It was advised to buy one before they sell out. This time of year, they never sell out! I found someone who knew my company and directed me to a building to sit and wait. I messaged the company telling them I was early. I had bought a ticket for the 12:45 boat but would be ready for the 11:15 boat. A man approached introducing himself as Hozni and asking where I was going. He works with the company, told me to wait and he would come and get me. Moments later, a message arrived telling me to find Hozni and he would help.
When the time arrived, I walked with a group to the river and was directed to a different boat than them. The captain looked at my ticket and told me this was NOT the boat! It was the public boat and he pointed “somewhere” for a different boat. A woman approached. Looked at my ticket. Told me this was my boat. And off we went!
Travel patience and flexibility!
Tortuguero, the "Amazon of Central America"!
I’m staying in traditional colorful Caribbean Hostel. Today, I moved to my private room with AC. The hostel is great! Friendly owner and staff! Centrally located. Very helpful with tours in a information. Easy to walk and explore in any direction.
Last night, I went on the turtle night walk from here. I joined another five people at a different hostel with a great guide, Israel. It was quirky to me! People were given guideline about what to wear, what to bring, what not to bring and so forth. Still, it us with this very small group 20 minutes to get walking as ladies needed to go back and get their insect repellent. Then their water. As we walked away, the group stopped for people to go back for ponchos. Then, a final check revealed people were bringing cameras and phones. It is clearly and STRONGLY communicated that those are NOT allowed. Some questioned that regulation and Israle let them know that he has been guiding for 11 years and doesn’t have a single photo of the turtles. Pulling out a phone on the beach will get the entire group escorted away immediately!
Once we got going, we went to a holding area. After 15 minutes or so, our guide was called. We were assigned a number corresponding to a path we would take to get to the beach. It was a long walk but quite pleasant. I was quite impressed by the organization! Scattering the groups along the length of the beach prevents crowds and noise from interfering with the turtles laying their eggs! While waiting our turn to go see the turtle, with the guide using a red light from behind so not to bother it, we noticed a turtle coming out of the ocean. It stopped, went back in and disappeared. They like their privacy and safety.
We got to see all three aspects of the process. The laying of eggs. The covering and packing of the egg chamber. Then the camoflaging of the next as the turtle finished up before returning to the sea! Awesome! I went back early this morning to see tracks and camoflage fake nest from last night!
Images from the village
I like this village! The first day, things were flooded and soaked. I waded through nearly ankle deep water getting to the reception area! The rain cooled things off nicely! It was a pleasant day to walk around, explore, ask questions and get acquainted with the village. It is laid back and lovely to me! And, there are hammocks!!!
Next!
the black out….??? After the rain, WiFi was really sketchy. Literally, nonexistant, and the eSim I bought did not work at all! I bought 3 gb worth of data. Now, two weeks into my travel, I have 2.76 left. Today was a rest and recovery day. I’ve been walking so much, my knee is a bit tired and sore. I went out at 6:00 am to see where the turtle activity had been and stopped for coffee and juice on the way home.
Tomorrow morning, I leave early for the canoeing trip but need a National Park pass I can only purchase online. Last night, I got the spinning wheel…the National Park website wasn’t working so I couldn’t buy a ticket. That’s where Verny helped me today by purchasing them for me.
The only pressing thing I had was making a reservation for my last night in San Jose. With no cell or WiFi service, I was feeling a bit nervous about getting that done. So I did the only sensible thing, I got a coffee, my book and headed for the hammock to read and relax! Lovely! The heat of the day drove me inside for a bit before I went out for a late lunch. I looked at my phone when I arrived at the restaurant. Surprise! I had a message with my electronic tickets from Verny and I was able to find a hotel near the airport. Booking and Agoda showed it only with twin bed and shared bathroom. I sent a WhatsApp message directly to the hotel and they reserved me a queen bed with private bathroom…hopefully, near the pool!
Time is winding down. I have a mix of adventures the next two days and my final day will be more relaxing and enjoying myself!
That’s it for now! Ciao!
Thanks for traveling along with me!