This image Above is From the night hike.
Lovely but shocking here with all the changes since 1997! For context: everyplace is changing! This one is a bit more stunning because of cost, development, focus on tourism and changes to the environment. Yes, Costa Rica focuses on the environment. And the method that appears to be happening here is “entertainment” tourism. Adrenaline experiences. Competetive sky walks. Competing night walks. Focus on doing! A consistent question I have gotten since arriving has to do with my plans for the next day. When I told people I was going to take a day to relax and walk around, they have launched into a list of cool things to DO! Being seems foreign here now. But doing! YAY! Go for it!
Yesterday, three youngsters arrived after I did and promptly went to sleep. For roughly three hours! Once everyone was awake, they huddled with phones in hand and began discussing options for today. One activity was not sufficient. They wanted to fit three different things into their one day here. Hours went by. I left, had something to eat, found a coffee and returned. They were still in discussion.
Eventually, in the evening, they went to reception to talk about organizing and booking their plans. However, they were told it wasn’t possible. I overheard them being told that travel and one activity would take at least four hours and they would arrive too late to take part in one other idea they had. They continued discussing options before they left and went out to eat.
That behavior pattern is normal here. ” I have two days and I want to do everything!”. Before, people came here to immerse themselves in nature and enjoy the experience. Now, so may different experiences are market to tourist that, unless a person is clear on their priorities, it is very confusing.
Me, I have five days here. I know what experiences I want to have. Last night I had an awesome night hike! It was simply awesome! I may take another before leaving but then again, maybe not.
Today, I rested, read, walked around the village, explored, had some coffee, explored some more, found local food for dinner and am now writing. Perfect!
In the morning, I take a 7:00 am bus to the Monteverde Reserve. It was necessary to book the ticket in advance. In the morning, the bus will take me not to the reserve, but the ticket office located about a mile away. Then, another shuttle will take me to the reserve.
I’m going early because that’s when the birds are most active and the tourist less likely to be. It’s quieter, less crowded and I sense an greater immersion in nature! A man here is working on a field project there. He fave me advice about where to hike recommending different trails for different purposes. Perfect! I plan to explore for a few hours. Then have breakfast in or near the hummingbird garden. The return bus leaves around 11:30.
Cost for the bus is $8 round trip. A taxi for the same trip is between $20 AND $30 each way.
The next morning, I will go to “Reserve Curi Cancha”. It’s less known, a bit more wild and with fewer people. My plan…the same! Go early, wander and explore. And, walk back when finished. It’s about half way to Monteverde Reserve. And on the way back is Restaurante La Cuchara de la Abuela. That translates literally to “Grandma’s Spoon Restaurant”, a place several have recommended to me for the quality of local food!
Other things will crop up I am sure but for now, that is the extent of my plans. Perfect for me!
Much more expensive than before...or anywhere else!
In planning, I often saw tours and hostel rooms listing prices in cash! US currency is the primary currency here except for small local places. The math has caught me off! It takes a while to become fluent in local currency!
Once I did, I realized just how much money I was spending. An coffee cost me $4 or more. A capuccino, that is $5. I had a basic traditional Costa Rican meal today and it cost $17. Rice and beans and meat and a glass of water. There is a bakery in front near my hostel. Everything is their display case seems to start at $4 and go up! Whole Foods pastries are around $3.50.
The impact of tourism I’m guessing. Prices are high in every place I’ve visited, even spots recommended for local food. The presence of street food is likely here but invisible compared to other places. It is apparent that the wealth here among the upper class has risen considerably and then there are the people doing the physical labor and just trying to get by. Is this progress?
When I walked to a restaurant this evening, I was immersed in a cloud! Covered, embraced, surrounded by moist cloud air as I walked. This is what I experienced last time here nearly every night. Locals told me this happens now maybe once a month. Development, reduction of habitat, increase in building, concrete, traffic and global weather change have had an impact!
And, I chose to come here knowing this ahead of time. So I’m blending in, savoring my experiences, enjoying the local food I can find and curious how it will be when I move on from a peak tourist location!
One thing that hasn’t changed….the friendliness of the local people! They are awesome!
Flexiblilty and adapting!
I’ve had several strange and quirky things happen fo far on this trip. It is really amusing. Things I have never had to deal with before but, here they are!
Not totally strange but when I arrived, my driver did not show up at the airport. No response, nada! I found a taxt and was off arriving at my hostel around 10:30.
I’ve misplaced things in my pack. Some of that is from lack of travel recently, some very uncharacteristic. Nothing huge!
Then, as I was fastening my brand new Solomon GoreTex shoe, the tongue on the left shoe came off. Completely! Separated. That’s never happened!
During the night hike last night, I lost my reading glasses! That never happens! Our guide Pablo found them.
Today, my camera stopped working. The camera works but the zoom lens does not focus or zoom. Weird!
This morning, I grabbed my razor to shave and the razor blade kept falling off. Somehow, I grabbed an old one, from a razor I never use. It was challenging shaving with a razor head without a handle attached. I don’t plan to do that very often! Once is enough!
Walking around today, I found a “dollar” store. This one, “A Mil” is actually a “$2” dollar store.
I walked, explored, talked with people, went down side streets, had coffee and read. Perfect day for me!
Tatiana here, when I showed her my telephoto lens and asked if they had a tiny screw driver, shook here head “no”! Then she suggested I check the “China” store. “They have everything”! They did! I took my lense apart, tinkered with connections and will see tomorrow if that makes any difference.
Night walk with Pablo! Stunning!
Somewhere in my reserach, I saw a comment from someone recommending a hike with Pablo. They described his enthusiasm, ability to spot things and the small group size he takes. It was a great hike for a group of six including him. There were a couple other small groups out and the guides were friends of Pablo. They would share when they gound something interesting. We saw roosting Toucans, sloth, three armadillo, lots of insects, frogs, a snake, cutter ants and more. The 2 1/2 hours flew by and were packed with sightings and information. We even had a brief rest when Pablo had to go search for someone’s glasses@!?@*.
My knee brace helped a ton as did my trekking poles! My legs were fatigued but I had no pain last night or today at all! Great!
Morning and Walking Surprise!
I woke early this morning. Forest line the backside of the hostel. I assumed I could go out, make a coffee and sit to listen to the birds and other morning sounds. The morning sound consisted of traffic noise! I didn’t hear birds. Surprising!
While walking and exploring around Santa Elena, I saw movement on rocks hear me. I stopped immediately. The movement did too! This is the lizard that was moving. Pablo wrote back that this is a rare reptile, the Emerald Lizard. So while strange unusual things have happened, so have amazing and inspiring moments happening as well!
I have always loved seeing the world through your eyes on your wonderful trips. Sad things have changed so much for tourism, more sad about the climate change. But your positive attitude about everything is so appreciated. And I love all the pictures! 🩷
I know you will find the gems and the sweetness among the chaos of the “new” tourism. The natural beauty is, of course, still there. And you are very skilled in shutting out the rest. 🥰Wendy