Several small local collectivo vans drove by while I was waiting. If you look closely toward the front of the top, you’ll see the head of the turkey. Yes, there are really chicken buses here. Schedules…not so much. Somehow it all works! Read on for more details!
Days ago, I had WiFi! Since then, I haven’t been able to get messages or sync photos. Here I am in Antigua now and have speed to spare!
Lots of adventures have happened since then! New friends, kayaking, boat travel, more new friends, awesome food. Now, here I am. Let’s catch up!
Steffi drove me to Poptun to purchase a ticket. Confusing but I couldn’t. I had to wait until the morning of departure for a 10:00 bus. A short Tuk Tuk ride brought me to the station shortly after 8:00. I bought my ticket and settled into wait. They were clear: “no bus until 10:00”! At 8:20, a bus arrived. They told me to get on and …that’s how things work here!
Onward to Rio Dulce!
Transportatin confusion is a consistent part of travel here! The exception: companies operating direct transport on specific routes! Even then…people today were on a direct shuttle that was supposed to take 7 hours, slightly less, but took over 9 hours yesterday. Key travel tool: stay flexible. Then, be more flexible and make the most of what happens!
My bus cruised right along!! I had plenty of time to go have a bite to eat, get some shopping done and then meet the public boat down river! Until…..we stopped completely! After some honking and frustration, we sat. Eventually, after 45minutes or so and a glance at Maps.me, I discovered I was only a little over 1 kilometer from the village! I opened the door to the driver and asked if I could walk? “See! List!” he replied and pointed. My backpack was sitting up front with him, he thought I might want to walk so retrieved it from under the bus.
What stopped traffic? Now construction or an accident?! A parade of horses! Yes, a small group of men on horses in several small groups were having some sort of celebration. People lined both sides of the road, music blared, smells of cooking food filled the air…but no traffic.
It was hot and slow going. I made it to the village maybe 2 hours before the bus moved! I found an old favorite restaurant from before, met Daniela, had lunch, caught the boat, and headed to Hotelito!
Curious? Look up Ay Wee restaurant on facebook.
Arriving at El Hotelito Perdido...once again!
I was here about 10 years ago when I took myself on a birthday trip. Arriving, I felt the same feeling of embrace I felt last time! Remote, quiet, family dinners at night, hammocks…perfect!
Friendly staff. Great food! Meeting people from around the world! It is hot and humid during the afternoon but oh so peaceful and natural! I recommend it!!
Enjoying El Hotelito Perdido!
It was a bit of a weary trip getting here. I thought about relaxing in my hammock before dinner. I knew I’d fall asleep. Then, I saw the light changing so grabbed a kayak and headed out for a sunset cruise. Photos from kayaking are from my small iPhone. I saw toucans, dozens of pairs of parrots, oropendula, hawks, water birds and paddles silently enough to savor the songs of the forest. Awesome choice!
I paddled sunrise and sunset every day but my last. One day, I barely left my hammock! Getting to Poptun was a 12 plus hour adventure! My back was sore as were my legs. I pulled out my rolled and went to the yoga spot. Stretching, lengthening, releasing, popping my back, loosening up tendons and muscles in my legs…it was a day of perfect remedy for me! This is one place I can easily see myself returning to!
Travel modification!
For some reason, I decided to stay one night in Rio Dulce! No reason really, just a feeling. I learned that there was a landslide that closed the highway so shuttles were not running. Good timing on my part.
I chose to stay at a place unlike I have ever stayed before. Lago Izabal is a sailing destination. There is a safe harbor for people and a lot of boats come in some for the winter. I stayed at Tortugal which had a dock full of boats in the front. However, the rooms looked so warm and interesting, I splurged to be there. It was a perfect spot for me.
Angela there was very helpful! When I was unable to purchase a but ticket for the next day, their driver dropped me and I walked to the station to buy one. I had ridden in earlier to have lunch, do some shopping, have a coffee and explore the village. Going back, a Tuk Tuk drove me to the beginning of a path through a cacao plantation and a hard wood factory I walked through to get to Tortugal. The moment I entered the forest, the temperature dropped! A great walk!
Once I had my ticket, I relaxed in my hammock on the balcony bordering the forest. Then had dinner facing the water. So peaceful! The next morning, I had an early coffee and chilled in my hammock before leaving! It was so refreshing for me there! Turns out I needed it!
Video...Tortugal
Travel...flexibility!
Tortugal’s boat dropped me and I walked up the hill to the bus station! The bus was waiting. It looked promising! Roomy! Not full! Air conditioning. Bathroom. Perfect! Until….
See it below, looks great from the outside!
We started out great and made good time. Eventually, the bus moved slower. As we approached Guatemala City, there was a traffic backup near where the landslide was. We sat for over an hour. Once we got through that, the bus never got up to speed! Down hill, we were traveling around 20 kilometer per hour. Virtually, any vehicle with an engine was going faster than we were! Slooooooowwwwwwwwww!
Occasionally, I could hear a loud squealing sound near the rear tires on the right side of the bus! Something wasn’t right. Good news: lots of room! I had a seat to myself in front for much of the trip. I had never sat there but didn’t really like it. Once a passenger got on and sat beside me, I liked it less. When I got up to go to the bathroom, I saw the back half of the bus was empty!! So I moved, stretched out, had more room and a better view….for our slow drive on to Guatemala City.
Initially, there was a possibility of getting into Guatemala City mid-afternoon and taking an Uber to Antigua. We arrived around 6:00 in the middle of heavy traffic. Uber prices nearly doubled. The drive was now 2 hours on to Antigua. Oh well!!! I did arrive.
Once here, at a new hostel to me, I was very happy to simply have arrived! Great place! Great staff! Really happy to be here.
This morning, I sent my laundry off to be ready this afternoon. Then I connected with a local chiropractor, fisiotherapy person and they had an appointment open for 10:30. Every morning since my 9 shuttle 12 1/2 hour travel day, my back has been stiff and sore. I stretch it out with the roller and that helps. However, I wanted some professional help to get it back in to alignment!
Freddy was great! Wow! He put some lotion on my back and felt his way to find the stiffness. Then, he did a light massage. Followed by some intense pounding with loose fingers all over. Really helpful! That was followed by acupuncture. Then massage. Then a deep tissue massage tool. Then, one more finger exploration checking tension. Really great! I so happy to have found him for help to get this balanced. It feels great now!
As I wrap this up, I’m planning to be here for one more day then move on toward Panajachel. From there, I’ll either go visit my friend Jared or travel around villages on the lake and see him and his family after.
Below are photos, the few I have taken here at the hostel and around Antigua. And a short video of my evening entertainment as I write this.
Rooftop entertainment
Not your typical hostel. Earlier, I saw a couple families come in and take two entire dorm areas. I’ve met people from all over and the staff has been awesome!
What great places and people you find! It looks beautiful.
Your room complete with hammock on the balcony is like the feel of your home.
love the details. i can hear birds chatter, bugs buzz, quiet of leaf & water.
thank you
ps love hearing chicken buses still happen. ❤️